Tap water

[SantaMonica]

For those who are using tap water for top-off or water changes:

Tap water sometimes contains copper to kill unwanted things. Algae eats copper, as long as the copper is not added to much, too fast. If the copper is added too much, too fast, it will stop the algae from growing for a while. So to prevent your scrubber from being affected by this, try to make sure you have as much algae on your screen(s) as possible when you add the tap water. In other words, don't clean your screen(s) before you add the tap water.

[jnad]

Hello!

Could this product be an alternative to buying an osmosis plant for water changes and top of water?? Just asking beacuse my osmosis plant is up for a renewal, has to by a new one.

http://www.tetra.de/tetra/go/7B4FA82407 ... &lang_id=2 (http://www.tetra.de/tetra/go/7B4FA824079E3BE3B2540904EC663F1D/?seite=6&group_id=291&group_2_id=12&lang_id=2)

Jnad

[SantaMonica]

You must be using a translator.

If you have an RODI, and it is "up for renewal", and if you have a reef, then you should renew the RODI. You do not want to experiment on a reef that is already in place. If you were starting a new reef with one or two frags, then you could experiment with tap water using the additive you linked to.

Reading the description of the product, compared to algae:

Chlorine: Evaporates on its own, if added slowly.
Iodine: In the food you feed (especially nori).
Metals: Algae removes them.
Magnesium: You have to add anyway, for a reef.
Bacteria: Have plenty to eat with DOC from the algae.

[jnad]

You must be using a translator.

If you have an RODI, and it is "up for renewal", and if you have a reef, then you should renew the RODI. You do not want to experiment on a reef that is already in place. If you were starting a new reef with one or two frags, then you could experiment with tap water using the additive you linked to.

Reading the description of the product, compared to algae:

Chlorine: Evaporates on its own, if added slowly.
Iodine: In the food you feed (especially nori).
Metals: Algae removes them.
Magnesium: You have to add anyway, for a reef.
Bacteria: Have plenty to eat with DOC from the algae.

Yes you have right, i am using an translator occasionally (the translator also helped me out with the word "occasionally) :D

Thanks for the inputs, i am going to by me a new osmosis plant.

Regarding to water changes, i did water changes every week beafore i started my scrubber. Is it recomended to skip the water changes when using scrubbers on small nano reefs??
My aquarium is 63 liter, and i do think i have a low nutrient system.

jnad

[SantaMonica]

Does not matter the size of the reef. Once your nutrients are under control, you can stop water changes, and the corals will then have more food.

[kotlec]

S.m. how would you recomend to maintain right water chemistry in nano without water changes ?

[SantaMonica]

Does not matter the size of the reef. Once your nutrients are under control (using a scrubber), you can stop water changes, and the corals will then have more food.

Scrubbers are harder to build for nano's, however, because there is usually no sump.

[kotlec]

Scruber build is no problem anymore - since its working for 6 month already :lol:

I mean how to maintain trace elements balanced in nano. I suppose water chemistry changes much faster in nano than in 200G tank as criters consume some build materials. My corals all started to loose colors and turn suntanned brownish at some stage. I see only dosing can do the job. But is it much easyer than water change - that is the question.
I'd be better wrong...

[SantaMonica]

Turning brown is from too many nutrients, not too little.

Once you stop waterchanges, all the traces you need are in the food you food. Feeding is proportional to gallons.

[kotlec]

Feeding is proportional to gallons.

Thanks . I missed this logic. And what proportion should I start to correct browning situation ?

[SantaMonica]

Each cube of frozen food you feed per day needs 12 square inches of screen, with a light on both sides totaling 12 real watts. Thus a nano that is fed one cube a day would need a screen 3 X 4 inches with a 6 real watt bulb on each side. A larger tank that is fed 10 cubes a day would need a screen 10 X 12 inches with 60 real watts of light on each side. If you feed flake, feeder fish, or anything else, you will need to blend it up super thick, strain out the excess water, pour it into a cube, and see how many cubes it is. And for Nori, 8 square inches = 1 cube.