ATS

[PHYTO4LIFE]

decided on this

above sump
lighting:4-t5 total h.o 3"to 3 1/2" from screen
2-t5 on each side
acrylic box:16"H x 26"Lx6"W
screen:22 1/2"W x 13 1/2"H
flow: 750G pump
maybe a surge device set on 3 minute on/off interval's

was hopping it would compliment my new system in the work's:

200g system

approx 160 lb's L.R mostly man made and seeded with irratant free L.R

Display:

90G-48"Lx18"Wx24"H 3"dsb

Lighting:

Tek lighting canopy with individual reflector's

4-20 000k / 2-figi / 2-12 000k shaded with tin foil on edges moon light with cycle's

Flow: like wheat in a gentle breeze no thrashing current's

40G kenya tree nutrient scrubber raceway:

above sump

lighting:4-t5's 2-10 000k 2-20 000k

acrylic race way:36"Lx24"Wx12"H 60 plug's 6"-8" tall tree's

216" of water channel track 2"-3" dsb

Flow:400 to 500gph

20G shrimp only tank:

above display

lighting:2-normal output 65 00k/20 000k

plumbed 8 to 10 shrimp's 3" dsb

50G refuge:

above display

lighting:4-normal output 3-6 500 k 1-20 000K

48"Lx12"Wx18"H

3"dsb

Culture's:

phyto culture forsure,amphipod culture forsure, still looking into other culture of pod's that will reproduce in the aquarium
along with being fairly easy to culture on the side

coral's:

zoo,paly,yuma,gorgonian,Christmas Tree Coral,sunpolyp,dandro,duncan,Scleronephthya-Cauliflower Coral-Orange, Red, Violet ,pink,yellow etc

Fish:

renting a pair of nemo's and 3-chromis's for the first bit of preperation's and a small female mandarin that will stay later I'll get rid of chromis's/nemo's later and keep the female mandarin then I'll slowly add the 2nd male mandarin and hopefuly/maybe some day a pair of pipefish's only if they will be ok food wise who know's what after that nothing aggressive or will compete for food with the pipefish/mandarin's afterward's I think lol

10G top off reservoir,kalk,phyto drip,pod culture dosing,10% weekly water changes,quarinteen tank,20g frag,extreme irratant removel and prevention

[PHYTO4LIFE]

Got the ATS idea from santa monica

that was just when I bought a mrc it's for sale now and unattached

alway's missed my first 7 tank's that had no skimmer's or one's that didn't work I alway's relied on heavy phyto/little frozen food feeding'/medium to small fish load to keep population up,rock's,flow,3"dsb,worm's,zooplankton scavenger's,sponge,mini serpent star etc to keep a clean tank along with regular 10% water changes

[SantaMonica]

Congrats on the new design! Forward thinking. Here's some tips...

22 wide X 12 high is a giant screen for a regular 200g system (although yours is really only a 90g.) 2 t5's on each side will not be enough to make use of all that screen area. For high-power scrubbing, you want a t5 every 3" at the most (I have two bulbs for a 5" screen). You could either add one or two bulbs per side (for high power scrubbing), or move the bulbs to the middle of the screen, which would reduce algae growth near the pipe, and also keep the bulbs farther from the water for safety.

No surge is needed to work effectively. I have not seen any difference in nutrient removal with or without a surge. And it's so much easier to not have one.

Since you are going to have nps, you might go the extra-high-power scrubber route:

Adding bulbs (2700k)
Using two screens (clean one at a time)
Pancaking screens (allows algae to grip)
Use rug-canvas (and replace as needed)

Regular-power scrubbing needs 0.5W CFL per gal; High-power scrubbing (like mine) needs 1 W per gal. If you consider your system to be 200g, you'll want 100W on each side of the screen. Since your 24" T5 bulbs will be 24W each, you'll want 4 on each side. And this is especially needed since you will be feeding ultra heavy for the NPS. Matter of fact, I might go so far as to say that NPS tanks need the most scrubbing of any type of tank (including large predetor tanks, which are skimmed.) So your large screen is really not that large for an NPS tank, but you do have to have the light-power to make use of the screen area.

[PHYTO4LIFE]

what if I went 60 plus kenya trees 6" tall in a nutrient scrubber 216" of water channel would this offset by chance the undersize ATS?

[SantaMonica]

Kenya trees, or any other coral, are not as powerful as a scrubber (because the scrubber put s the algae so near to the light.) In general, softies don't thrive in a scrubbed tank because of this. So if the purpose of having softies is just to have nice looking corals for decoration, you can fix the situation by feeding MUCH MUCH more (like five times more) than you did before the scrubber. But if the purpose of the softies is to "remove nutrients" (and thus you do NOT feed more), then they are going to lose against the scrubber. I.e, the better the scrubber operates, the smaller the softies will shrink.

Thus, in your case ("removing nutrients"), I would not do the Kenya scrubber at all. I'd stick with your size screen, and I'd make it high power by using 4 bulbs per side, two layers of rug-canvas, and two separate screens fed by two separate flows which can be shut off independently. You are going to need to feed tremendous amount of phyto, roti's, etc, in order to even have a chance at keeping the gorgs, suns, sclero's, etc.

[PHYTO4LIFE]

Is having a undersized ATS like the one I already bought the light's/pump for will this benefit me If I wanted to keep in a little inorganic's to possibly keep a little algae growing in the system so I can scrap the glass and feed some of my zooplankton maybe some small fish just wanted to have a little control of inorganic's I've run tank's before without a ATS or protein skimmer or refuge usually 20G and heavy dosing of phyto with no problem's always relied on large population's of scavenger's,soft coral etc as filter's?

was hoping the ats I was planning on building will do a ok job nothing heavy duty just enough to keep nitrate/phosphate just under 10 ppm just as a compliment along with rufuge/nutrent scrubber

while the softy/kenya tree nutrient scrubber will be mainly as a propagating area that can be scaled back along with feeding depending on inorganic testing

[PHYTO4LIFE]

Congrats on the new design! Forward thinking. Here's some tips...

22 wide X 12 high is a giant screen for a regular 200g system (although yours is really only a 90g.) 2 t5's on each side will not be enough to make use of all that screen area. For high-power scrubbing, you want a t5 every 3" at the most (I have two bulbs for a 5" screen). You could either add one or two bulbs per side (for high power scrubbing), or move the bulbs to the middle of the screen, which would reduce algae growth near the pipe, and also keep the bulbs farther from the water for safety.

No surge is needed to work effectively. I have not seen any difference in nutrient removal with or without a surge. And it's so much easier to not have one.

Since you are going to have nps, you might go the extra-high-power scrubber route:

Adding bulbs (2700k)
Using two screens (clean one at a time)
Pancaking screens (allows algae to grip)
Use rug-canvas (and replace as needed)

Regular-power scrubbing needs 0.5W CFL per gal; High-power scrubbing (like mine) needs 1 W per gal. If you consider your system to be 200g, you'll want 100W on each side of the screen. Since your 24" T5 bulbs will be 24W each, you'll want 4 on each side. And this is especially needed since you will be feeding ultra heavy for the NPS. Matter of fact, I might go so far as to say that NPS tanks need the most scrubbing of any type of tank (including large predetor tanks, which are skimmed.) So your large screen is really not that large for an NPS tank, but you do have to have the light-power to make use of the screen area.

I'm open to the height of the scrubber screen being lower just not sure about the box demension's etc with a 750G pump what demension's of the box should I use? what size bulkhead's? 2 or 1

will the scrubber I plan equal that of a 5G pail with 4 -23 watt light's?

if so then it will do only because I want some growth of algae in the tank

[PHYTO4LIFE]

No surge is needed to work effectively. I have not seen any difference in nutrient removal with or without a surge. And it's so much easier to not have one.

that's cool didn't really want to use it


I can alway's add another Ats later if my inorganic's get too high

any advantages to having the screen I'm using and glueing together a second one to the other side making the squares line up or should I alternate the square's so they are cut in half?

[SantaMonica]

Is having a undersized ATS like the one I already bought

It's not undersize if you don't have the kenya's, and if you use 4 bulbs per side.


I wanted to keep in a little inorganic's

You always have inorganics; they are just too low for the test kits to measure.


keep a little algae growing in the system so I can [scrape] the glass and feed some of my zooplankton

To really grow zooplankton you need to dose phyto, and use rock-rubble.


just wanted to have a little control of inorganic's

The best solution is to just feed MORE. That way you get more inorganics AND more organics, so everybody gets fed. But another easy fix is to set the timer for more "off" hours for the light.


always relied on large population's of scavenger's,soft coral etc as filter's?

Yes same idea. They are limited though, as to how much filtering they can do. The scrubber will filter many times more then they did.


was hoping the ats I was planning on building will do a ok job nothing heavy duty just enough to keep nitrate/phosphate just under 10 ppm just as a compliment along with rufuge/nutrent scrubber

If you don't use the Kenya's, the scrubber (with 4 bulbs, 2-layers screens, high flow) will keep nutrients at zero, even with dosing phyto. If you do the Kenya's, either they will die from lack of food (they need a good amount of inorganics too), or your nutrients will be higher and you will have nuisance algae on the glass and rocks (because you will have to feed MUCH MUCH MUCH more to keep them alive). Unless you are propagating/selling the Kenya's, it's better to not have them.


with a 750G pump what demension's of the box should I use? what size bulkhead's? 2 or 1

750 divided by 35 = 21 inches wide. If you could put 24" T5's, then make the screen 24" wide. If not, then 18" bulbs. Make it as tall as you can. Ideally, you want a bulb every 2". Every 3" is ok but not strong. Every 4" is weak. Use a 1" pipe.


will the scrubber I plan equal that of a 5G pail with 4 -23 watt light's?

It will be much more powerful than a bucket, because the screen is much bigger, and the lights are much nearer the screen from left to right.


if so then it will do only because I want some growth of algae in the tank

Then feed MORE MORE MORE. Ten times more. The corals will grow much much more too.


any advantages to having the screen I'm using and glueing together a second one to the other side making the squares line up or should I alternate the square's so they are cut in half?

Does not matter how it is glued.

[PHYTO4LIFE]

If you don't use the Kenya's, the scrubber (with 4 bulbs, 2-layers screens, high flow) will keep nutrients at zero, even with dosing phyto. If you do the Kenya's, either they will die from lack of food (they need a good amount of inorganics too), or your nutrients will be higher and you will have nuisance algae on the glass and rocks (because you will have to feed MUCH MUCH MUCH more to keep them alive). Unless you are propagating/selling the Kenya's, it's better to not have them.

was hoping to sell them or harvest the kenya tree's

[PHYTO4LIFE]

Then feed MORE MORE MORE. Ten times more. The corals will grow much much more too.

o I'll be feeding if I can guess it will be feeding 5 cup daily of phyto and ton's of live food if possible

[PHYTO4LIFE]

any advantages to having the screen I'm using and glueing together a second one to the other side making the squares line up or should I alternate the square's so they are cut in half?

Does not matter how it is glued.

how should I rough it up what size sand paper etc?

[PHYTO4LIFE]

just curious is it true that ATS take out alot of inorganic's while leaving organic's?

[PHYTO4LIFE]

acrylic box:16"H x 26"Lx6"W

would this be the right demension's for the acrylic box for a 750gph pump with 2-1200gph bulkhead's only 1 as back up incase the algae block's the one opening of 1200gph bulkhead drain or am I good with 1?

[SantaMonica]

Well that makes it a propagation tank if you want to sell them. Remember they are just another corals that needs more food, and gives off ammonia. They are the opposite of algae, which eats ammonia and gives off food (pods).

So your scrubber, even with 8 bulbs on each side (400 watts), will be marginal.

[PHYTO4LIFE]

ATS is only a compliment everything was done in section's and tested besides the ats I could go without one no problem but just figured a ats will cut down on glass scrapping a bit along with allowing me to dose just a bit more so i can load the tank up with lot's of protein/hufa etc for keeping alive and in decent population the available live food on my reef

it will be mostly a propagating tank along with display for mother colonies and some hard to keep for me coral's and medium flow mostly softies,a tad bit of lower light sps like encrusting montipora digitata,some lps along with a pair of mandarin's the nemo's will go once my live filter is up and maybe if thing's work out pipefish or seahorse's for the future I'll be going slow

never tested for ammonia in my life never had to worry with a small fish load and large soft coral population

[PHYTO4LIFE]

any advice about the scrubber box wouldn't mind leaving room for another 2-t5 bulb's on each side just incase I want to upgrade later as the tank get's stocked?

the above refuge I was wondering if it might offset a bit if I put in macro algae or is it better for me to just use it for alot of reef rubble and pod's?

[SantaMonica]

You can fit up to 8 bulbs on each side. So make room for those, and just use the middle ones for now.

Don't use other macros; they will just die. Use rubble.

[PHYTO4LIFE]

That's cool I'll stick with 4 total for now I'll make it to have have room for 8-t5 on each side for the future just incase good suggestion should I extend the screen even thou it is not neccessory would you suggest this or keep a small screen and go with the addition of light's? I also like the fact I can load the refuge with rubble thank's

I only want to start with 4-t5 only so I can get an idea of how strong a ats really is I've been hearing of people with a 2000G fish only system with 4-23 watt bulb's being able to bring their phosphate and nitrate from 10ppm to 5ppm this make's me think that it is powerful I still want algae growing in the tank that's the thing I still want to scrape the glass I don't want 0 ppm

[PHYTO4LIFE]

the light I can get for 4t5 is approx 8to10" and for 8 would be 16to20" would you suggest a 24" deep box?

[PHYTO4LIFE]

was hoping also to keep about a 75F tank is this still possible with 16-t5 ats?

not too sure about this but can a algae turf scrubber produce food or just maintain and allow the food to stay in?

were you saying that soft coral consume phosphate and nitrate? or just the detritus before it break's down?

[SantaMonica]

Make the screen all the way down to the water. That will keep it quiet.

Max power comes when you put a T5 every 2 inches. 8 bulbs on each side would be 16 inches. So a 24 inch box is good. When starting out with 2 bulbs on each side, put them in the middle, about 6 inches apart.

Can you post a link to the 2000g guy?

[PHYTO4LIFE]

http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic89570 ... f+scrubber (http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic89570-4-3.aspx?Highlight=turf+scrubber)

here is the link

I want to build this one here but larger box

S.M 120
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic89570 ... f+scrubber (http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic89570-4-4.aspx?Highlight=turf+scrubber)

[PHYTO4LIFE]

Make the screen all the way down to the water. That will keep it quiet.

Max power comes when you put a T5 every 2 inches. 8 bulbs on each side would be 16 inches. So a 24 inch box is good. When starting out with 2 bulbs on each side, put them in the middle, about 6 inches apart.

Can you post a link to the 2000g guy?

the pipe I'll be using will be pvc read somewhere that using a dremmel and opening a horizontal line to fit the screen will do

is this all i have to do and close the other side of the pvc?

[PHYTO4LIFE]

What thickness of acrylic should I use for the box I'm planning?

[SantaMonica]

Do you mean this box?...

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Acrylic.jpg

[PHYTO4LIFE]

that's the one if thing's work out I would like to put it above display between the above display zooplankton refuge and display it's self

ATS was the last link to a puzzle I was trying to figure out for keeping in the most food for zooplankton/coral's etc that I was looking for over the last 7 year's too bad I Just bought a mrc for $350 just before finding out about a ATS and now I am having a hard time to get rid of it for $175 lol

was never a fan of skimmer's alway's relied on heavy phyto dosing,rock's,flow,3" dsb,scavenger's,small 10% weekly water change's fit's right into what I'm trying to do

but of course it's not popular to discuss this on some site's

[SantaMonica]

So yes, just close the pipe on the end.

[PHYTO4LIFE]

thank's ;)

[PHYTO4LIFE]

That last question was dumb lol

the 225G system will be a long build over 1 plus year's

I'll build the box to fit 8-t5 each side for the future

for now I will have a 90G/30G sump/ATS and 2 nemo's,3 chromis's,2 mandarin's and about 80 small frag's of of zoo's/yuma's 3to5 polyp's a frag and 5 small colonies of coral's

I would like to start with 4 t5's on each side with the possiblity of 8 t5's later will 4-t5's on each side due for now with 2 cup's a day of cultured/filtered and density/nutrient etreme monitored phyto addition of T-Iso/nano balanced EPA/DPA ?

I'm starting to get the feed concept i can alway's feed alot and slow down depending on inorganic's

[SantaMonica]

4 bulbs each side will be ok, if you have a good thick screen that is very rough, and you clean weekly.

[PHYTO4LIFE]

how is the screen attached to the pvc is it between the long slit in the pvc at the top inside with crazy glue or pvc glue or acrylic glue etc or is the screen ment to come apart from the pipe?

how is the screen centered?

is a union thing it is called where you can unscrew the pipe best to put close to the screen but just on the out side of the box

[PHYTO4LIFE]

4 bulbs each side will be ok, if you have a good thick screen that is very rough, and you clean weekly.


cool was really hoping to save the other 4 each side for later when the heavy nutrition dosing begin's

[PHYTO4LIFE]

ALGAE TURF SCRUBBER:

On a 90G DT/25G Sump

T5-HO 192 Watt Acrylic Box Design Above Sump

Approx Screen 22" Width x 13" Height

Flow 750 GPH

Dual Fan


The
ATS2010
PHYTO

Copied from santa monica.

Acrylic Box:

23 1/4" to 24" length

3 1/2" to 4" width

16" to 17" height

Light Canopy:

Total 192watts

There will be a canopy on each side of the screen it will be

lit by 4-t5 high output 6500k bulb's.

Light Canopy Demension's:

Approx 23 1/4" length x 10.1/8" x 2 1/4"

The light's are 1" tucked up inside measuring from out side of the canopy frame inner tip of lip to outside of the light tube.

The canopy also has reflector's the canopy is called sunlight supply with a workhorse ballast I believe.

This is the light canopy I will use x2.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq303/clintos08/Picture017.jpg
http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq303/clintos08/Picture018.jpg

Screen:

22 1/2" width x 13 9/16" height x little over 2/8" thickness approx with 4 screen's glued
together.

This is the type of screen I will use x4 the size is discribed above thickness is 3/4 of a 1/16 of a inch?, $2 each @ walmart in the fabric section.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq303/clintos08/Picture044.jpg
http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq303/clintos08/Picture008.jpg

I will use 4 of them glued together and roughed up like crazy on each side using 60 grit sand paper and maybe a steal filer or something.

Pump:

Will be approx 750GPH.

This is the pump.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq303/clintos08/Picture016.jpg

Pipe:

I'll be using 1/2" pipe from the pump approx 26" height
then a union I think it's called and another 24" length pipe for the box

Return:

This is the type of bulkhead I will use.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq303/clintos08/Picture019.jpg

I'm thinking of using the common bulkhead's used for pool's probably 2
1 being the main and the other will be just above water level inside box to be on the safe side probably not neccessary.

ATS Positioning:

I plan on positioning the ATS right over my sump in the middle.

This is the new home for my ATS.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq303/clintos08/Picture022.jpg

Fan's:

Hoping 2 will do mostly black plastic fan's.

Question's:

Any suggestion's for making the screen like one solid piece after disconecting it for easy harvesting?

The change in direction with the pipe to make it horizontal, should I go with a 90 degree elbow or 4-45's?

How would I install the screen so the water flow's down the middle?

The fan's Any suggestion's where to get this?
the size? and number of fan's?

What thickness of acrylic should I use 3/8" or thicker?

Any suggestion on better kelvin then 6500K or lower kelvin?

I would like to see the water level but I am unsure if I should be looking inside of this ATS?
is it best for me to paint the box all white or black?

How about those clear piece's is that realy thick acrylic how did you instal those?

[SantaMonica]

Any suggestion's for making the screen like one solid piece after disconecting it for easy harvesting?

Not sure what this means.


The change in direction with the pipe to make it horizontal, should I go with a 90 degree elbow or 4-45's?

You mean two 45's. That would be better. Or one of the wide-sweep ones.


How would I install the screen so the water flow's down the middle?

Not sure what this means.


The fan's Any suggestion's where to get this? the size? and number of fan's?

Any fan(s) will do. Anything.


What thickness of acrylic should I use 3/8" or thicker?

That's a better question for the acrylic fabricator. Mine is 1/4".


Any suggestion on better kelvin then 6500K or lower kelvin?

Lower. 2700K.


I would like to see the water level but I am unsure if I should be looking inside of this ATS?

No need to look inside; their should be "no" water inside since it all drains out (you might have to tilt it a little bit to help it).


is it best for me to paint the box all white or black?

White. Will reflect the most light back in. Mine is actually made of mirror acrylic.


How about those clear piece's is that realy thick acrylic how did you instal those?

What pieces?

[PHYTO4LIFE]

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq303/clintos08/AcrylicOnSump.jpg

What are the 2 bright light thing's made of in the middle of your ATS at the top

what part is it attached to? the lid or main box?

or is it not necessary because no matter what I will know the light is on?


For the paint I will go for white
any suggestion on type of paint? oil? spray? any primmer? clear coat?sealant?rust paint?thick paint?heat resistant paint?

should I go all 2700K or mix it half and half with 6500K and 2700k?

Installing the screen I see some are slipping the screen between the dremeled slot where the water comes out and using zip ties putting it between the squares in the screen and around the pipe to hang the screen to the pipe is this the best method?

is there something I can use that is reusable?

If I use a union can I take the screen out along with the pipe and half union altogether when cleaning the screen as one piece?

Cross cuts are these really necessary if so how many approx?

thank's about the 2-45's lol you can tell i'm not a plumber lol

[SantaMonica]

What are the 2 bright light thing's made of in the middle of your ATS at the top

Acrylic extensions, to hold the lights. They are attached to the side of the body. The lid just sits on top (although I don't use the lid anymore, since I have the fan blowing into it.) Look here for more:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdzhAwMaBNE


or is it not necessary because no matter what I will know the light is on?

You can attached the lights however you like. Here's another way:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/UserBobthereefbuilderOnMASA-1.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/UserBobthereefbuilderOnMASA-5.jpg



For the paint I will go for white any suggestion on type of paint? oil? spray? any primmer? clear coat?sealant?rust paint?thick paint?heat resistant paint?

Marine boat paint. Any thickness, any way. All it does is reflect. Now, if you want to block light from getting out, you'll want to use white first, then primer.


should I go all 2700K or mix it half and half with 6500K and 2700k?

All 2700.


Installing the screen I see some are slipping the screen between the dremeled slot where the water comes out and using zip ties putting it between the squares in the screen and around the pipe to hang the screen to the pipe is this the best method?

It's one. You can use shower curtain loops, or nylon bolts, or an internal "T"


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/CurtainRing.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/UserHuhhhhhOnMB-03.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/UserIamFoodOnSG.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/UserMurfmanOnSCMAS-4.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/UserMurfmanOnSCMAS-5.jpg



If I use a union can I take the screen out along with the pipe and half union altogether when cleaning the screen as one piece?

Generally, no, because you have to clean out the algae that grows up into the slot. If, however, you install a light-shield (which keeps algae from growing into the slot), you might be able to. ...


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/UserSaltCrittersOnTR-1.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/UserGrAhF11onRP-1.jpg



Cross cuts are these really necessary if so how many approx?

Generally, yes. And certainly so if you don't have a light-shield. In case algae grows up into the slot, they give the water a way to flow over the algae. They use more flow though, so you might want to plan for 40 gph per inch of screen width.

[PHYTO4LIFE]

How exactly is the spray bar attached to the union?

Looks like the spray bar slip's off from the whole union is this true and is there any other ways to do this incase I can't find the same union and it is threaded?

Does the cross cut create more of a spray towards the inside of the box meaning I have to clean the inside of the box more or is this just something I should be doing weekly any way's?

With the screen not having the shower certain holder ring and installing the sreen to hang on the inside of spray bar what is that material attached to the screen made of it has a red arrow pointing towards it in the pic above?

the tap do you think it would work in the box method to or is it best to maybe instal something made of white acrylic/cut pvc and glue it?

thanks

[SantaMonica]

How exactly is the spray bar attached to the union?

Unions connect directly to pvc pipe.


How exactly is the spray bar attached to the union?

No, the union comes in half. Half stays attached to the pipe, by glue.


Does the cross cut create more of a spray

No they help reduce spray, because of algae grows up into the slot, water will still be able to get out.


With the screen not having the shower certain holder ring and installing the sreen to hang on the inside of spray bar what is that material attached to the screen made of it has a red arrow pointing towards it in the pic above?

The screen is not attached to one side; it goes up into the slot in the middle. That material is just metal foil tape.


the tap do you think it would work in the box method to or is it best to maybe instal something made of white acrylic/cut pvc and glue it?

Not sure what you mean.

[PHYTO4LIFE]

Thanks appreciate it I'm ready to build it ;)

[PHYTO4LIFE]

the tap do you think it would work in the box method to or is it best to maybe instal something made of white acrylic/cut pvc and glue it



Tape to block the light near the slot and cross cut in the return pipe^^