adjustments and cleaning

[saltykid85]

My diy scrubber is about 4/weeks old. 10 inch wide screen, 300 gph, lit by 40 watt (actual wattage) cfl on each side.

First 3 weeks I cleaned every 7 days, in sink, leaving some algae behind. Now after 4 days since being cleaned, I have thick dark algae.

Should I stick to every 7 days, or can I let it go longer?

And lastly, the chamber which the ats since in is coated with green algae growth. I am guessing it is the extra light getting to the sump unblocked. I am using 5 inch metal reflectors (heat light type)

Is this algae bad , and should I try to get the light just yo shine on the screen, and none peripherally on the surrounding sump glass and baffles?

[Bacon]

Pics would help

A couple questions:

Based on your other thread - 80g seahorse tank, correct?

How much do you feed?

How big is your screen?

If you have a 10" wide screen so it might be safe to assume that you're in the 10x8 range. That's 80 sq in, /12 = 6 cube/day scrubber. Pretty big for that tank. I'm thinking you're feeding

Lamps, 2x 40W CFL but your other thread was confusing, is that the actual wattage or the "incandescent equivalent"? I'm thinking actual. If so then your wattage is OK, on the low end, but OK.

Reflectors - for a 10" wide screen you would want 10" reflectors, and the dome kind, not the heat-lamp kind. My guess is that your reflectors are shorter than the lamp so the end of it is sticking out and you are losing a lot of light energy, which might partially explain the sump algae.

All that being considered, and if my assumptions are correct, if you have a screen that is too big, but your light is focused on a smaller area, your screen is essentially de-rated. So I would say you have a 3 or 4 cube/day equivalent scrubber with the light being more intense in the middle where the lights are focused, and this is your active scrubber area. Your growth is probably dark because of the high N and P and that will green up over time.

You can clean 7 days, 14 days, whatever works best. I would go 10 days and see how the screen looks after you clean. If all the algae comes off after you scrape, and there's almost none left (in the holes) then that was too long of a growth cycle.

HTH

[saltykid85]

Pics would help

A couple questions:

Based on your other thread - 80g seahorse tank, correct?


Yes sir, 8 seahorses, about 7 fish, about 20 or so lps and sps frags.

How much do you feed?

Not much believe it or not, at least not anymore, maybe 4 cubes total spread throughout the day of regular mysis.

How big is your screen?

it is ten inches wide, I cant remember how much it hangs down. I want to say it is 10.5x 13.5

If you have a 10" wide screen so it might be safe to assume that you're in the 10x8 range. That's 80 sq in, /12 = 6 cube/day scrubber. Pretty big for that tank. I'm thinking you're feeding

Lamps, 2x 40W CFL but your other thread was confusing, is that the actual wattage or the "incandescent equivalent"? I'm thinking actual. If so then your wattage is OK, on the low end, but OK.

Actual wattage. The equivalent of 80 watt bulbs, (i know that number is meaningless, but the actual consumption is 40 watts per bulb,)

Reflectors - for a 10" wide screen you would want 10" reflectors, and the dome kind, not the heat-lamp kind. My guess is that your reflectors are shorter than the lamp so the end of it is sticking out and you are losing a lot of light energy, which might partially explain the sump algae.

That makes complete sense. I was under the impression, the dome metal reflectors were heat light types. (At least that is what I used to use on my reptiles back in the day)

All that being considered, and if my assumptions are correct, if you have a screen that is too big, but your light is focused on a smaller area, your screen is essentially de-rated. So I would say you have a 3 or 4 cube/day equivalent scrubber with the light being more intense in the middle where the lights are focused, and this is your active scrubber area. Your growth is probably dark because of the high N and P and that will green up over time.

You can clean 7 days, 14 days, whatever works best. I would go 10 days and see how the screen looks after you clean. If all the algae comes off after you scrape, and there's almost none left (in the holes) then that was too long of a growth cycle.

HTH

[Bacon]

Actual wattage. The equivalent of 80 watt bulbs, (i know that number is meaningless, but the actual consumption is 40 watts per bulb,)

This is what was confusing me...when someone says "equivalent" they are generally referring to the incandescent equivalent listed on the box - like when one says "23W CFL, equivalent to 100W". All we care about is the actual wattage. You have 80W (actual, total) on your screen, 40W (actual) per side. So it's not 80W "equivalent", it is 80W actual. Just clarifying that for you so that you don't confuse someone else into thinking you have 80W of "incandescent equivalent" light.


I want to say it is 10.5x 13.5

Not much believe it or not, at least not anymore, maybe 4 cubes total spread throughout the day of regular mysis.

10.5 x 13.5 = 140 sq in or about 12 cubes/day, but that's if you had minimum 70W per side.

So you are light-limited, in terms of capacity. 80W total = about 6 cube/day scrubber

So for your amount of feeding, you are fine (less than 2x the size/capacity compared to feeding).

Do you have a pic of the reflector you are using? Or a link to what it look like at least.

[saltykid85]

Yes sir, I will attach it as soon as i get to work.

Just because I was bored and needed to pass time, I ran another test. .50 this morning. Up from .39 yesterday. Not much more algae growth, so I am thinking either something died in my tank, doubtful, or because the light isnt beaming on screen because of reflectors, the intensity isnt there to penetrate deeper algal growth.
I will get the proper reflectors tomorrow.

[saltykid85]

http://m.homedepot.com/p/FlareAlert-75-Watt-PVC-Clamp-Lamp-1101/204588318?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cG%7cBase%7cPLA%7cD27E% 7cElectrical&gclid=CjwKEAjw7MuqBRC2nNacqJmIpT0SJABQXAOt1xr002LR niFTrLNQA0IuYmo0p35fWnc_OLN2JN6ZaRoC5H3w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


These are the I ones I just picked up. 8.5 inch dome, white inside, plastic, won't rust or corrode. Think they will work?

[saltykid85]

http://m.homedepot.com/p/HDX-75-Watt-Incandescent-Clamp-Light-CE-200PDQ/100354513/

These are the ones I have used.

[Bacon]

this one was what I've seen used more often

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-150-Watt-Incandescent-Clamp-Light-CE-300PDQ/100354511?N=5yc1vZbm7i

Not sure about the plastic one, but probably OK

[saltykid85]

Yea that's the one I was going to get. But truth be told they have always broken on me or turned the hell. The white ones seem built better, don't have to worry about salt etc.

Just don't know if white will reflect light as good as metal chrome looking stuff

[saltykid85]

So the last time I checked phosphate and nitrate was a few days ago. Yesterday they measured .35, and I enacted a 25 gallon (25 percent) water change last night. So mathematically my phosphate should have been a .26 when I checked it today (75 percent remaining water X .35 phosphate level is .26) I decided to run a phosphate and nitrate test today, my nitrates were 0, and my phosphate was a .19 on the checker, in back to back test. My growth, although still not GHA, is dark again after cleaning it from just three days ago. So I suppose in the last 24 hours, it has knocked phosphate down from .26 down to .19.

Looks as if it is going in right direction. Certainly my nitrates have for for the first time shown a yellow color on the API kit. (zero)

Two of the last pieces of rock i have put in display are turning green. Interestingly enough, the other 50lbs of rock or so is newer than 6 months old. THe last two I have put in are from an old tank, that was high in phosphate.

[saltykid85]

Right now my screen is 10x13, knitting canvas roughed up. I have a measured 300 gph flow hitting the scrubber, (335 would be better, 35x10,however that is all I can get out of this pump). I have a true 40 watt spiral cfl on each side, giving me 80 watts.

I see that home depot carries spiral cfl's with 60 true actual watts. Would that be better (120 combined watts) on my screen, or am I ok with the 40 watts. I am getting a darker algal growth, and my levels have gotten better. Just looking to get the most out of it.

[SantaMonica]

I think a real 40 watt CFL is about as much as one side of the screen can take. It should almost be burning the growth on the screen.

[saltykid85]

Its def a true 40cfl, 27k, or the equivalent of a 150w. I have the tip of the bulb, (end of spiral) about 2 inches from screen, knowing it can burn, I should probably back it up an inch or two.

I was only asking because I remember reading a watt per square inch I believe, which would be 130 watts, or 65 on each side.

Sounds like the 40 watt is where ill stay.

[saltykid85]

So the last time I checked phosphate and nitrate was a few days ago. Yesterday they measured .35, and I enacted a 25 gallon (25 percent) water change last night. So mathematically my phosphate should have been a .26 when I checked it today (75 percent remaining water X .35 phosphate level is .26) I decided to run a phosphate and nitrate test today, my nitrates were 0, and my phosphate was a .19 on the checker, in back to back test. My growth, although still not GHA, is dark again after cleaning it from just three days ago. So I suppose in the last 24 hours, it has knocked phosphate down from .26 down to .19.

Looks as if it is going in right direction. Certainly my nitrates have for for the first time shown a yellow color on the API kit. (zero)

Two of the last pieces of rock i have put in display are turning green. Interestingly enough, the other 50lbs of rock or so is newer than 6 months old. THe last two I have put in are from an old tank, that was high in phosphate.

[saltykid85]

My measurable phosphate have definitely been dropping, from 1.06 a month ago, down to .16 on hanna checker now.

However, for the first time today, I notice I am getting a green dusting on the glass, that easily falls off with the magnet cleaner going over it. Is this commonly seen, and what could the possible cause be of it?

Thanks

[SantaMonica]

Use this thread for your posts.

Lower nutrients will grow a lighter green growth, including on your glass. Growth on the glass will always occur, but will take longer before it needs cleaning as your nutrients come down.

[saltykid85]

Okay so what I am seeing is to be expected

[SantaMonica]

Yes

[saltykid85]

SM--

I havnt done a water change in about 7 days. My phosphates read .11, on back to back to occasion 24 hours ago.

My girlfriend was over before, and she wanted to see how the testing worked. I ran the hanna checker again, and my PO4 read .04 on the checker (from .11 a day ago)

Is something seem out of wack with the meter, or could it be the algae, which is growing lighter in color now, is taking hold?

A few weeks ago, when I added the reagent, it would turn neon blue instantly. Now even after meter has run its 3 minute timer, it is very clear, as if i didnt add the reagent.

Cause for concern or celebration?

[SantaMonica]

Sounds like it's working.

[saltykid85]

Hello SM, et all

Two questions I have regarding ATS.

Firstly, I checked my phosphate yesterday and today, and both times, using same testing procedure, I tested 0.00. I am feeding quite heavy. Any suggestions on how to get it to .03 like people suggest, or should I live it and assume there are some po4, just not detectable by Hannah checker?

Secondly, a friend of mine took down a tank, and gave me his mag 9.5. I hooked it up in my tank, removing my mag 7. to get more GPH to the display. I adjusted ballvalve accordingly, and measured how long ATS line took to fill a 5 gallon bucket (57 seconds, which gives me about 320 gph through the screen. However, compared to where I had it at 300 gph, it seems some of the water doesn't touch the screen, but kind of falls around it.

Could it be 20 gph difference was enough to be too much, or am I over thinking it?

And lastly, it could be my metal halide lighting, however even when they are off, my water seems very foggy. A white fog, where its tough to see from one end of the tank to the other (4 foot tank) Its not green, so I cant say its the green algae tinting it, but apparently something is.

My nitrates are zero, as well as measurable phosphate, so I doubt its anytime of bacterial bloom.

Any suggestions or input would be appreciated.
Thanks

[SantaMonica]

There are always nutrients in your water. Fish pee, and fish and coral and microbe respiration put constant ammonia and urea in, and it converts quickly. So if you want, you can feed more. But you don't need to have measurable tests.

Would need to see a vid of the flow. Might be too strong and is shooting to the end, or might actually be weaker.

The fog may be from lime that got let go from your pump change. Nevertheless, it will go away. If you are not dosing vodka/carbon, then it won't hurt anything.

[saltykid85]

Well I see I have no way to up load video here. I suppose I can leave it as is, and just test periodically, and if numbers start rising, then slow flow down.

And the fog in the tank has been over a week now, long before I put in used pump. I don't have a uv light to clear it up, and I always thought a bacterial bloom was too many nutrients, not from having not enough.

Perhaps I just came down to quick, and bacterial colonies are adjusting accordingly?

[SantaMonica]

You can use youtube.

Not sure about the fog, but if the fish are not going to the surface to breath, they are ok. All fogs clear up either by settling of particles, or consumption of bacteria by microbes and corals.

[saltykid85]

No surface breathing, I'm turning tank over about 30x an hour, plus surface agitation, o2 has to be up.

My ats is still producing slime type stuff, ranging from dark and lighter areas.

I thought with low nutrients, (0 nitrate and 0 phosphate) it would grow lighter in color?

Is there something other than po4 and n03 nutrient wise I am not able to measure?

[SantaMonica]

Would need pics of the growth