Santa Monica 25 Nano Scrubber

[SantaMonica]

I'm coming up with the requirements of a 25 square inch nano scrubber that will sit above a nano display, and drain back into it. It is more plug-and-play than the 100, and will be designed for first-time tank owners who don't want to understand how it works. Here is what I have so far:

2 screens, about 4" (140cm) wide X 6" (210cm) tall each, with one light in the middle. Will need to flow about 4 X 35gph X 2 screens = 260 gph (988 lph) total.

Will attach to the side/back/top of a nano, but will be up higher, to get better draining.

The top of the scrubber will come off, and allow you to pull one screen out at a time for cleaning. Not sure yet if you should have to turn off flow first; if there is a valve on each screen, you should be able to turn off one screen while leaving the other one flowing.

Probably should include a timer for the light.

Will include the pump; one that can go into the display, or into the back ("sump") area of a nano. I'm not sure that a self-priming pump, placed in the scrubber, would be feasible, due to size and design hassles; a pump that strong would be heavy and big (bigger than the scrubber). So I think a regular pump in the display is better. If it's in the tank, there's no chance it would lose its prime (which would kill the screen), and, it would otherwise be of much more reliable construction, and much quieter too since it's under water.

One important point is that the pump can't be allowed to empty out the display by accident; in case of a problem, the pump should only empty out a half inch (1 cm) or so of the display water, just as HOB self-priming pumps would do. One way to do this is to put a hose on the intake of the pump, and set the pump on the bottom of the display; attach the end of the intake hose at a place up near the surface, maybe with suction cups. Or maybe use a stiff intake pipe instead, and have it go up like a snorkel, but just below the surface. If the user forgets to top off, the intake would start making noise as a reminder.

Mounting: Since it will be higher than other HOB devices, it will need to be on the sides of the tank, near the back. This will allow the lid to be raised without knocking the scrubber. Also, I don't think a regular HOB mount will be secure enough, because it's too easily knocked off (especially since the scrubber is higher). It's probably best to attach the scrubber (somewhat) permanently to the display. I'm thinking maybe double sided tape on the black part of the back of the nano; the tape would hold a large vertical plastic plate, and the plate would extend up to hold the scrubber. Or, a rigid strap across the back of the tank, with a clamp that tightens down on the corners, sort of like a vice. One last option would be a free-pivot mount, attatched to the top of the lid, that works like a seat on a ferris wheel: as the lid (and scrubber) is raised, the scrubber would rotate to keep itself vertical. It would do this because of a weight placed on it's bottom side.

In addition to the water tubing going into the scrubber, and a drain tubing coming out, there will also be an emergency overflow tube near the top of the screens. This will be for times when the user forgets to clean and the drain fills up. At that point, the overflow drain will handle all the flow forever, until the drain is cleaned.

Trying to find a price point for such a scrubber, if it includes pump, timer, tubing, bulb, mount, everthing.

[johnrt]

Hi:

You might want to make a platform for any brand of nano tank to sit on, that has a upright back with a shelf at the top for the scrubber to sit on. The weight of the tank would make the shelf stable and you would not be locked in to any particular brand of tank.

You could make a variety of stands, with suitable sized scrubbers, for standard sized tanks up to say 30 gallons all based on the same basic design, just by changing the dimensions and pump size.

Cool what? John T

[SantaMonica]

I thought of a similar version of that idea; A mount that slides under the nano, using the nano to hold it down. It would reach up and over the tank and hold the scrubber there. But I'm not sure if the nano would wobble or not. Your larger shelf version would stop any wobble, but I don't know if it would fit into the more elaborate nano-cabinets that I've seen.

[rygh]

Hmm.
I am thinking that not too many people will want a sizable cube placed up above a nano, or another pump inside it.
And for that 4+4= 8" screen, according to your calcs, isn't that a 256 GPH pump? Maybe less since one sided.
Still not tiny, for something that needs to go inside a nano.
Basically, the usual point of having a nano is either serious lack of space, or wanting an esthetic "minimalist" system.

I might suggest making a mini-ATS-SUMP instead.
So you make it a bit bigger, with a reservoir in the bottom for water and the pump.
Placed below the main tank, with a simple siphon system.
Definitely would need an automatic pump shutoff on water level.

You could even do something really fun, like make a fully sealed system.
Screens inside a fully sealed box. A bit like an ammo-box with clear sides. Light outside.
You would need a tiny air pump as well, to get the same waterfall effect.
Cleaning might be a hassle. Maybe not, with a couple of valves and the right opening system.
But installation would be a breeze, and you could easily put it under tank in a cabinet.

[SantaMonica]

Some good points.

It will be about 8 X 3.5 X 4. All the people so far who have built a scrubber for their nano's put it either on top, or in back. None of them put a sump in. Therefor I really don't think too many nano people would want to get a version that sits below the tank, even if it is it's own sump. Plus the siphon will end up stopping, and you'll loose your filter. A sump version might be a good next-step, however, if it had two pumps: one for the return, and one for continuous circulation on the screens. That way a broken siphon won't hurt anything. But this is a lot of space and money, which is why I don't think it would qualify as a simple nano device.

If I put all the flow on one side, I can probably get the flow less. I currently have it figured as going on both sides of the screens, even though they are one-sided.

I think I see what you mean by a sealed box, but I don't think having bubbles will give you any growth. Certainly not like a waterfall. But I'd like to see someone else try it :)

Anyways, I just finished a melt test, to see what happens when the 27watt light gets put into an almost-closed black acrylic box: It got hot, but no melting even after one hour. In operation, it would have more ventilation, and clear acrylic, which won't get as hot.

[rygh]

The reason it is not hot is probably because all the heat is going into the water.
So you end up with a 27W heater that is on 18 hrs a day. Could be an issue on a nano.
Definitely needs ventilation. You could make it more like a square donut, so sealed around the water, but center light section open on top/bottom.
You may want screen on all 4 sides at that point.

So on the sealed box, I was envisioning it was full of air. So it would have the same waterfall type effect. Not bubbles.
You have tank -> water pump -> pressurized ATS box -> usual bottom overflow -> back up to tank, (pushed up due to pressure)
The air pump keeps ats box mostly full of air. The air displaces the water down to the bottom of the screen, to the overflow out.
Beyond that, at the bottom, the small bit of air will naturally exit out with the water. (bubbles in the tank a minor concern).
Or you could get fancy with a tiny air return line at that point, or even a float switch to turn the air off.
Technically, a venturi might work on the pump, instead of a dedicated air pump. And from another thread, the froth may help.

[SantaMonica]

HOT = Hang On Top

[rygh]

Hot = not cold. :-)
I was commenting on your temperature test, not positioning.

[SantaMonica]

For the test there was no water, which is worst case. And I current have a sandwitch design, with light in middle, and screens on sides. Will be only about 3.5" thick. The center light/box will lift out for glass cleaning

[rygh]

BTW: On the pump priming issue.
If you put the pump below the water level, no real need for self priming.
You do need to prime the pump, but it is pretty easy, and you only need to do it once.
And that is even if ATS is above, and intake goes over tank edge.
So you could even have a single piece integrated ATS/pump holder/stand for behind/next to the nano. All made of acrylic.
Acrylic sits on table, acts as stand + ATS. Pump is on the bottom, below water, and ATS is on top.

BONUS SEMI-RELATED TIP:
If you have a plumbed external pump, for ATS, sump, closed loop circulation, etc.
Get a pump that is capable of submerged or external, and install it in a bucket of fresh water!
So pipes go in/out, and pump is submerged in the water. Tank water is separate from bucket water.
Great for reducing noise. - All that water really deadens pump noise.
Great for thermal problems. - A lot of heat from the pump goes into the fresh water, and out through bucket walls. Way better than air.
Great for maintenance. - When disconnecting pump for cleaning, it always spills. But this way, already in a nice bucket.

-

[SantaMonica]

Here is the rough idea for the 25. Is all black acrylic, except for clear windows on both sides of the light.

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25rough.jpg

[SantaMonica]

Did a little refining on the tubing sizes; looks like they will be 1/2" ID. But I think the feed tube can be 3/8.

[emieczko]

I've been lurking for a couple of weeks now and have really developed an interest in building something like this unit. The light is my biggest hurdle, at the moment. I can't find anything I like that will package the way your design intends. Mind if I ask what you're planning to use? :)

Eric

[SantaMonica]

This:

http://www.planetbulbstore.com/fml27.html

(2700k)

[turbo v6 camaro]

any idea when this will be ready? I would be willing to be a test subejet also if you need someone to test, I'll pay full price for the thing

I was thinking of one kinda like this for my 10 gallon to day that would sit over the area my HOB filters are now.

but the light source I'm stumbling one on cause i dont want it wide,

would this work ?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_90966-75774-017 ... t%20lights (http://www.lowes.com/pd_90966-75774-017801823653_6_?productId=3047222&Ntt=florecent%20lights&Ntk=i_products&Ns=p_product_price|1&pl=1&currentURL=/pl_$50%2Bor%2Bless_6__s?Ntk=i_products$rpp=45$No=4 5$Ntt=florecent%20lights$Ns=p_product_price|1&spellCorrectedTerm=fluorescent%20lights)

I jsut can't find a Control for it with buying a $20 light fixture :roll:

ideas ?

[turbo v6 camaro]

oh and for mine i was thinking about a small overflow box in the tank and just set the pump in the bottom of the over flow box some how? can use sucktion cups to hold the overflow to the tank !!

[SantaMonica]

That light won't fit into the size box I posted, but it is a similar (stronger) type. If by "control" you mean ballast, you just have to search the web for ballasts. Fulham.com has a lot.

The "pump in the box stuck with suction cups" is not somthing I'd do. Too many things to fail. I'm recomending that the pump go in the tank; it can be suction cupped up high, near the waterline, where it won't be too visible. This way, if the cups let go, nothing happens. Also, there is no siphon to fail.

[SantaMonica]

Here is the box design:

full size: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25small.jpg

[SantaMonica]

Finally got a finished acrylic box to work with:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25-1.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25-2.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25-3.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25-4.jpg




Did a flow test:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4HJilDbX10

Then did a melt test; put the bulb in, and let it set with no water flow for a half hour. No acrylic softening. Then, poured boiling water into the compartments; still ok...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ar82ZM8W_y8

[rygh]

Very interesting design. Thinking of that for my kids tank.
Do you have a good estimate on flow required yet?
Your drawing has XXX.
Your basic 7" x 2 x 35 gph/in = 490 GPH, but it is single sided.

[SantaMonica]

Not yet; just started a grow test about 10 minutes ago, will little flow. It is a tiny pump, at the lowest setting. But the idea is to see how much flow you can get up to.

[SantaMonica]

Beginning of growth test. The flow you see on the one screen is 50 gph:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3yRclWTwS8

[turbo v6 camaro]

very cool any idea on cost yet? really want to try one on my 10gallon while i save for the SM100

i would love to DIY but i can not find the supplies i need locally :?

[SantaMonica]

The acrylic sheets are basic 3/16 inch. Just cut them and glue (mine will use acrylic glue, but silicone is easier to DIY). I'll post a parts list, once I make sure all the pieces work together. The ballast I'm trying now is the Fulham Workhorse 2, which has short wires; the Long Horse 2 has long wires. Other than that, you just need the bulb (posted above) and a small tube for the pipe (available at model shops.)

On the current test, the bulb is very powerful for how much flow there is, and it's over-powering the algae in the middle of the screen (turning it yellow; the edges are nice and green though). So I'm seeing how much I can increase flow, and then I'm going to scatter the light by diffussion. The drain becomes an issue too with high flow, because it cannot back up no matter what.

The goal is to be able to sell it for $199 USD, including the pump, and offer an optional stand/bracket that will hold the scrubber up from the floor, over the nano, if needed. Otherwise the scrubber will just set on top of the tank, or on a shelf.

[rygh]

If you want to save cost, it seems like the 4 lengthwise vertical pieces (sides) could be 1/8 acrylic, or maybe eve 3/32.
As long as the bottom is thicker, should be plenty of strength.
As a bonus, it transmits light better and is lighter.
Also, you might consider making it completely clear, then painting the outside white.
Bounces light around better, so more efficient, plus clear acrylic is usually cheaper than black.
Doesn't look as cool though.

The above might apply to SM100 as well.

[SantaMonica]

The acrylic people tell me that 3/16 is as thin as you can go while still getting a water proof seal. As for painting, it would be a big extra step, and would not block all the light. Black is working fine, looks good, and blocks all the light. Plus, there is already too much light, and I'm having to find ways to disperse it.

[SantaMonica]

Finally, I have a combination that has some green. Had to up the flow on the one-sided screen from 50 to 75 gph on the one screen (am not currently using the other screen), and reduce the lighting to 16 hours. Bulb is 1 inch (2.54 cm) from the screen. The bulb is setting on the bottom of the box at an angle, and the screen is also at an angle, and that's the reason that the burned-yellow part is at the bottom, and why the waterline is tilted:

(right click and "view image" to see the whole pic)
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25-5.jpg




I cleaned it today, then sanded the clear window to diffuse the light. The bulb is so near to the screen that you are almost able to see the outline of the bulb in the growth. Scattering the light should help a lot; it's just a matter of how much.

To build this at home, you would just attach vinyl tubing to the pipe, and set the screen down evenly inside the box.

[craig1]

SM, how's the progress coming on this?

I first saw your design on the 100, and started thinking about how I could make one half that size, but it's difficult to find inexpensive T5 fixtures, and most are at the 24" + level. Then this one came along! I'm currently running a 28g JBJ Nano, which by your calculations with both screens running should be totally covered by this design.

Couple comments:
I think selling with or without a pump would be valuable. The JBJ comes with 266gph pumps, both of which I've replaced, and I know others have too.
I also think that there are those of us who do know what they're doing, and don't want complete turnkey, but still want the basics built, like the box, light fixture, screen, base plumbing, but skip the timer, pump, etc.
Mounting straps are interesting, but how about a version that's just simple, rests on a shelf above the nano to flow the pods into the "rear sump" of a nano.
For me, excess light may also be an issue. It's hard to tell from your pics if you built an acrylic mount for the light or not, but if you do/are, silenx makes fantastic quiet fans. They don't have 2.5mm fans, but do have 4mm fans that perhaps could be mounted on the light end.

Questions
How did you make the screen holder/flower? Looks like a square tube?
Do you have other pictures of the box to see how everything is fitting together?
Are you running two screens yet or still just one?

Thanks again! You have a convert on your hands, just waiting for the right product!

[SantaMonica]

Yes the 100 would be a bit overkill for a 28g, unless you were attempting a breeder or a true non-photo tank.

The 25 will come with a pump, simply because they are so cheap. So at least you will have a backup pump that works properly, in case the one you get yourself breaks or does not work right. By far, all the cost is the box and the details, not the pump. And I don't think it's going to come with a timer.

The basic unit will not have a mount; it will be like you said... it will just set on top of something. Most people with nano's have them near shelves, etc. There will be an optional floor-stand, or side-of-tank mount.

The escaped-lighting is still being figured out. After the light-vs-growth issue is solved, then I'll figure out the drain, then I'll figure out the escaped light, then I'll figure out the mounting. There will be no cooling fan.

The current screen holder is just hobby tubing from a model shop, square, with a slot cut in it. I'll have more pics once I start testing both sides together, which I will be doing on the next box that I just ordered, which will have diffuser plates instead of clear windows.

Still hoping to be able to sell it for $199 USD, plus optional mounting/stand.

[craig1]

Nice. Can't wait. I also have a local acrylic / plastics shop here too, so I may run over to see how much it would run to buy and cut it. Only problem is all the details I don't have :)

Keep it moving!

Craig

[SantaMonica]

Finally getting the 25 nano scrubber to have consistant results. Am testing one side of it here, on a FW 10 gal with some tetras, catfish, suckerfish, and a discus. 0, 0, 0, when feeding one frozen cube blood worms a day. No water changes, and top off with tap water (no chlorine remover added)...

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25testing1.jpg

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25testing2.jpg

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25testing3.jpg

[SantaMonica]

After doing a very rough cost calulation, it looks like because of the several safety features, and the included pump, tubing and drains, that the the final price will be $299. The safey features (in addition to the short-circuit proteced ballast) are a weighed base (to keep from tipping over), a GFCI protected plug, backup drains in case the main drains get clogged, and a tip-over power cutoff circuit that will shut off the light if it gets knocked over or dropped.

It will also come with a water-bulb (like a turkey baster) to spray down the glass; and a narrow brush to clean out the pipe. The included pump will power both screens. The drains will be separate, allowing you to route them to different parts of the tank (if needed) so the flow can be put where you want it. There will be an extra bulb, too.

It will be available in 120 or 240 V.

[daddybuda]

Looks great! Did you finally decide to use frosted acrylic or are you still using clear between the bulb and the screen?

[SantaMonica]

So far the clear is doing fine. The "over lighting" that I had before was fixed by adding some iron.

[daddybuda]

You lost me. What do you mean by the term adding some iron? Do think that the wildhorse ballast could support two of those lights? I am thinking I could make a double sided screen for the middle and put a light on each side. Would that be two much light if increased the flow of water to 100 gph? I guess it would be a 100 mini.

[SantaMonica]

Iron makes yellow algae turn green.

You might be pushing it by putting two bulbs in; you should do a heat melting test.

[daddybuda]

Do you use an Iron supplement, and if so what is its name? Would an Iron supplement be safe for a SW reef?

[SantaMonica]

That's what they are for... SW. Just follow the instruction. I use Kent's Iron + Manganese.

[craig1]

SM, what are you using for returns back to the tank? Hard to tell from the picture. Are you using any bulkhead fittings?

[SantaMonica]

The small pump is just setting in the tank.

[craig1]

Let me rephrase the question. The water returns on the scrubber itself, are you using a bulkhead fitting? or did you simply silicone the hose to the scrubber?

[SantaMonica]

The hose is just stuck in there for now. No attaching at all. I'm trying a bigger drain next.

[SantaMonica]

It's been looking and working great, feeding on cube of blood worms per day. No ammonia or nitrite, and just a touch of nitrate if you look through the side of the Salifert test (and only if you compare it to plain water). I've been adding phosphate (Mono Potassium Phosphate) to keep the green hairs from being too long.

Am topping off with tap water, with no Prime or other additive added. I have been just letting the topoff water sit in a bucket overnight to evaporate chlorine. The algae in the scrubber produces Vitamin C and Ascorbate, and these break the cloramines into chlorine and ammonia; the algae eat the ammonia, and the chlorine evaporates.

I'm now working on a test nano scrubber to test on the SW tank.

[turbo v6 camaro]

any up dates ??

[SantaMonica]

Still working good. No water changes. Topping off with untreated tap water.

I've been fine tuning how to clean the screen easily, without getting algae in the tank.

Also I let the first bulb go for 8 months; growth had really slowed down (did not "back up" any more). Replaced with a new bulb and it was "backing up" within two days.

[SantaMonica]

Here is what it seems like the 25 is going to look like. The pink part on the top is the lid. The open part on the front is where the bulb and ballast go. The bottom is open, and will sit on a 5-pound metal plate. The back side will have the water tubes and drains:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/25-sketchup1.jpg

[SantaMonica]

After over a year of testing, here is the first functional prototype of the Santa Monica 25 Nano scrubber, made pretty much from the plans that were posted here last year.


(to see big pics, right-click and "view image")...

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-pipe1.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-pipe2.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-pipe3.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-pipe4.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-base1.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-base2.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-base3.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-base4.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-base5.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-base6.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-screen1.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-lid1.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-lid2.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-drain1.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-drain2.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-drain3.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-body1.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-body2.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-body3.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-body4.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-body5.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-body6.jpg


http://www.radio-media.com/fish/SM25-body7.jpg

[Guille]

:shock: ¡¡Fantastic design!!
I look forward to having one. ¿When you can buy?
¿Can I buy from Europe? ¿240V?
Thanks Congratulations
Guille

[SantaMonica]

Thanks.

I need to have some people test it first. A few months.

[Greenblurr93]

the design looks great!!! was wondering though.. why the upper and lower drain on each screen?

[SantaMonica]

Two reasons for the extra drain:

1. Protection from overflow: Since this unit is not designed to set on a sump, and instead it will be setting on top of display hoods or shelves, it cannot leak or overflow.

2. 3D scrubbing: As the algae grow, the bottom drain slows down and the water rises; this creates 3D filtering, where the water and the light can flow in and throughout the strands of algae. This is much more powerful than 2D scrubbing, where the algae is flat against the screen.

Guille: For 240V, a simple converter can be used.

[Greenblurr93]

thats a great idea! I really like the concept of 3d scrubbing, do you think a valve on the lower drain would serve any benefit since you could make the water level higher, rather than waiting for the algae to grow?

[SantaMonica]

You can't make the level higher; it won't grow.

[Greenblurr93]

I see what you're saying... you don't want the water level to raise until there is algae growing, or it will stunt algae growth...

thanks for the help

[MorganAtlanta]

What was the final flow rate you ended up with for each screen?

[SantaMonica]

75 gph

[lcdrdata]

I'm coming in on this a bit late, so forgive me if these questions have been asked/answered before. I'm considering this or something like it similar as a supplement to my 75-gallon display tank; as this is designed more for a nano tank, would I be wasting my time to use it on a 75? Do you have an estimated price for this, and has this come out of "beta testing" yet? I'd love to get the SM100 but the price, while reasonable, is just out of reach, and I don't have the time/talent for DIY. Thanks!

[SantaMonica]

First I should correct the gph... is now only 50 gph total... 25 per screen.

Is still testing, and doing well, but I still need to get some built for others to test.

It can handle up to a cube of food per day max; maybe 1/2 cube to be safe. Does not matter the gallons.

[jnad]

Hello!

What are the dimensions of the screens you use?

jnad

[SantaMonica]

4 X 6 inches (10 X 15 cm)

[nickq]

Hi SM, how is this going?
Do you think 2 nanos would be cheaper for a 200L tank than 1 SM100?

Thanks,
Nick.

[jnad]

First I should correct the gph... is now only 50 gph total... 25 per screen.

Is still testing, and doing well, but I still need to get some built for others to test.

It can handle up to a cube of food per day max; maybe 1/2 cube to be safe. Does not matter the gallons.


Hello!

Is 25 gph (93 l/h) correct? This is about 500 l/h less than recomended in the FAQ?


jnad

[SantaMonica]

The slot is much smaller.

[jnad]

Hello!

Do you mean that the slot is a lot smaller than the screen that is 10 cm wide?

jnad

[kerry]

The delivery tube and slot look smaller, scaled down compared to the full size delivery tube of 3/4" PVC. Maybe???

[SantaMonica]

The slot is only 1/16 or smaller.

Nevertheless, the 25 is on hold so that the new super-easy-to-diy nano scrubber can be prepared. Will be posted in a couple of months.

[jnad]

I am a little curious about the new nano scrubber beacause i am into nano reefs: What sizes of nano Reef is the new scrubber adapted to?

jnad

[SantaMonica]

It's not adapted to anything. You build it yourself the way you want. It's just very small so that nano's can use it better than what's available now.

[Twisted nano]

Ok I'm ready to test and or purchase. I may be new here but I have been reefing for over 10 years, and lately im all about nano/pico's with softies corals. I have no skimmers and only do water changes. My 3G pico is out of the question but this new ats would be ideal for my 6g chi since I have a few types of agle growing I want gone.

Let me know what it takes I already have threads going on thereeftank and reefcentral so I'm more than will to give this unit the ultamite respect it deserves to prove if ats really do work even on nano tanks.


Brad

[SantaMonica]

Unfortunately it's not available... there is just one, still filtering my 10g FW community.

The shift of focus is the new one to be posted in 2012:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1513 (http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1513)
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1630 (http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1630)

[SantaMonica]

Well this brings up a good point. Since I've been working on the new scrubber, I've not done much with the 25. So if anyone would like to test, build, and market it, I could sell you the patent application and you could take it over. It is a U.S. PPA which expires March 7, 2012. You would then file your own U.S. NPA.