Why have I never seen this topic ?? it's great !!!!!
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Why have I never seen this topic ?? it's great !!!!!
Michael, the only thing I would be concerned about with building a tall narrow box is that you HAVE to know what you're doing when building the box. Seams are under a lot of pressure at 24" under water, no matter how much volume you have it's the same amount of pressure, because it's dependent on the water column. In fact, I just ran that through the Cyro calculator (24 H x 7 W, no eurobrace) and it says you need more than 1/4". It says 0.271 and 1/4" is typically .236 (all brands are metric except Polycast and maybe Reynolds) so you have to go to .354 of 3/8" for this depth of box. Also you seams are going to have to be pretty good or they could blow out. Remember you are not building a box like the DAS, you are basically building an aquarium so you have to treat it like one.
But regardless of that, why go T5HO? Why not just DIY LED? As soon as my build gets posted you'll see an example.
Jason, it was posted for a few people to test and it was just 'revealed' - a few days early...
So, this is th NEW DESIGN SM is bragging about ??
That's cool, so now my sump will be even better and 1 pump removed is heat removed as well from the water :)
Sweet !
Sm would i be right in saying another plus to this design if i get a power out while im in work or away my scrubber wont die?
Floyd when you get the upflow boxes perfected if you can ship to ireland let me know :-)
Cool
Sorry to say, I am extremely disappointed with this design. I was expecting something a little more revolutionary, not something akin to sticking a screen inside a skimmer and putting lights on it. I will be sticking with the old design for several reasons. Airpumps are noisy and fail often when the diaphragm goes out, airstones clog easily and create lots of salt spray, and the biggest reason, I can't see anyway to incorporate this into my overflow, which by doing so means all my water gets filtered over the screen.