"Any particular pictures or description you might want."
I think we all want to see green goo. So do you.
John T
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"Any particular pictures or description you might want."
I think we all want to see green goo. So do you.
John T
Yes.
Great setup thanks for the ideas. I am trying to figure out leds and I noticed that the mean well led driver I am going to use, LPLC-18-700, has an IP or Ingress Protection # With this particular led driver it is IP 67 which means you can immerse in water up to 1m. Something I will never try to do but good to know if there is a freak accident, like dropping it into the tank, you might have some protection. Trying to figure out the best way to waterproof wire connections to make as safe a setup as possible. Any ideas? Here is a link for the other IP codesQuote:
Originally Posted by rygh
http://www.taitmobilebop.co.nz/IP67
Hope this helps. Note not all mean well led drivers have the same rating and I still have to use the one I am talking about.
Well, simply use aquarium safe silicone sealant on all the external wires. You probably have that lying around already.
It should seal well, is non conductive.
However, for right around the LED itself, I am not so sure. Could be thermal issues.
If you need to seal there, use a non conductive epoxy, like they use on PCB boards.
But safety is really not much of an issue. It is only 16V or so. If dropped in the main tank, might freak out the fish,
but should not kill them. Would definitely not kill you.
As long as you keep the 120VAC power supply well away of course.
Clarification:
What I did was have a very short 120V wire, from plug to power supply, and then a long (4 foot) wire from
power supply to LEDs. The long wire runs low voltage. With the short 120V wire, no real way to drop it in the tank.
But be a little careful of heat buildup on the power supply itself as well. Generated a few watts. So no fan needed,
but cannot really be completely enclosed in a small box.
Bump for answer.
Yes, second image is the fully assembled light.
My previous yes was too vague, and confused with a different post.
Note that the wire going out at top right is the 4' one going to power supply.
Third (front) image shows power supply.
UPDATE:
Well, I am seeing a bit real algae growth now. Finally!!
But not much yet. Hmm. I will add pics soon.
As background, my problem is that I have a really good ATS established in the main tank.
Otherwise known as annoying hair algae all over the place.
My nitrates and phosphates have always been undetectable.
So the point here is more about algae removal (moving) than reducing nitrates. Which according to forums, is harder.
Note that I also have a good protein skimmer (still running), and remote deep sand bed.
With the previous CFL lighting, even after 3 weeks, all I ever had was a pale yellow.
Plus a bit of oily-green crud grew up near the pipe, where lights barely hit.
Now:
I am getting a bit of hairy green here and there. Encouraging, but slow.
Seems to be growing best on the outside, where there is less light. Possibly too intense. We shall see.
I also added a lawnmower blenny, who seems to be eating a bit.
Because your bulbs were to near, for the amount of flow it had.Quote:
With the previous CFL lighting, even after 3 weeks, all I ever had was a pale yellow.
Because that was far enough away from the bulb to not get over-lit. The oily stuff is what you get when your nutrients are high.Quote:
Plus a bit of oily-green crud grew up near the pipe, where lights barely hit.
Interesting.
I am probably way over-lighting with the LEDs then. I will move them back a ways, and see what happens.
I don't really think water flow can be an issue though.
It is single sided, and probably has around 60 gph / inch. (Only a 10" wide scrubber, with entire sump flow)
Way more than 35 gph. May it be too much? Although I keep reading you can never have too much.
The thin-green-slime area was also up where there would be less flow, not just less light.