Modern LED scrubber light

Thanks for the reply

"Any problems getting things from Australia?" Rygh said

It did take 2 weeks but considering the distance(I'm in the USA) and they did just get off the manufacture floor (new bins)

no big deal. I have yet to test the led that I got but I have not heard one bad complaint about this company yet. (no small feat)

Gone all led. Great. You could be proof that led work for SW.

Side notes:

Will be a least 4-6 weeks before my 680 nm Marubeni led come in. My Zillionth revision

http://www.tech-led.com/data/SMB680-1100-I.pdf

I have been somewhat drawn by the high tech t-5's (been finding many advantages) but thats the past led are the future.

If anything I will know what to get, how to setup them up, where to get them, and what to avoid.

Thanks for any help.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by inkidu

You could be proof that led work for SW.

---

Hope so. Interestingly, the seeding seems to have done far more than all the tinkering with wavelengths.
I am wondering if that might be some LED specific thing. Perhaps what grows first changes with LED.
Sure seems like most other builds don't need seeding.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by inkidu

I have been somewhat drawn by the high tech t-5's..

---

Sacrilege. :o
I still have some T5's on my main tank, and I must admit the huge variety of colors available is rather nice.
But I always forget to replace them on time, and the sudden change in brightness is a big shock to things.
And the expense for bulbs and power is quite annoying.
I am still hoping for a bigger tank. (Working on approval from the wife).
Once that is decided, I will probably go 100% LED there as well.

Quick update:

I had a sudden surge of growth after I seeded, but it has subsided a bit.
It is still doing better than before though. And more importantly, the green hair seems to be winning over
the dense yellow algae. And the yellow stuff seems to grow a bit, then stop.
So seeding was definitely a help.

The other reason in increased growth I found out this week : A fish went missing.
I have a small school of blue-green chromis, and noticed it was a bit smaller than usual.
Carefully counted, and one seems to have died, and probably rotted in some rocks.
Small 2" fish, but still no nitrate spike or anything, which I am happy about.
But does explain the short term increase in growth.
I also had 2 hermit crabs die. So I hope nothing is going wrong. But did water tests, and seems fine.

My annoying bubble algae is looking a bit unhealthy now. Very excited about that. But it is not what I would call dying yet.

I can't see how seeding could possible hurt. Why not try. You aren't introducing a lot of nutrients into the water with a small

amount of algae. Could you introduce something else? Sure. I regularly hide in my crawl space with a foil hat.

Quick update on my setup. Hope you don't mind Rygh

I turned off my 10 watt deep reds just because I was getting some yellow burnt areas.

Could probably increase the flow but this adjustment doesn't cost me money i.e. it is easy to unplug the driver.

So my ledengin warm whites and assortment of rebel blues are lighting the screen nicely.

I am getting good growth, should of probably went with 5 watt versions of the deep red.

Thinking, because I do have a digital aquatics controller, I should maybe try some short off and on times

with the deep reds. Still experimenting. With these results though, with the warm white and blue mix, the

cree 2700 K and 470 -480 blues that I mentioned in a previous post would be a great idea. Fairly cheap too.

Hope this helps and thanks for any help.

How short of a cycle are you thinking?
Have you read anything on trade offs there?
I am running 6/6/6/6 on/off/on/off right now.
Note that I only have about 30W total, so a lot less than you.

Pity about removing the deep reds.
I am convinced that the current Blue + warm_white + deep_red is much
better than the old warm_white + regular_red.

I am a bit adventurous when adding things from the wild.
In fact, when I collected the algae from the bay, I also grabbed some mussels that were
growing in the muck. Threw them in the sump, along with some muck, just for fun.
They seem to be happy, although I doubt they like the temperature.
I really believe that the more complex the biosphere the better.
That said, I am very careful quarantining from the fish store.
Like the doctors office, a good place to catch some nasty diseases.

BTW: I wonder what those govt agents in the black helicopters think of the freaky purple glow from these LED systems.

Thanks for reply

The on off times I am talking about only would apply for the deep reds. (I think they are just are to powerful)

The Digital Aquatics controller comes with a power strip of 4 individual plugins

any one of which can be controlled separately. I might easily start off with a few (10-20) minutes a couple

times a day and see what happens. Aren't led great? Experimenting is half the fun

Side note

I have been very happy with the controller

it has a lot of different upgradeable paths without having a large buy in price $99

http://www.digitalaquatics.com/

bang bang

got a run they are at the door

I have started to run the deep reds for an hour after the scrubber lights are on for a hour.

Great news my discus are showing signs of breeding behavior. wak a wa wa

It's working! It's working!

In two months I have brought back fish from the brink of death to breeding. You can't deny the power of the algae.

Very glad to hear you are having good luck.
Mine is still so-so.

My screens keep getting taken over by this fairly solid yellow algae. The pods don't touch it, and
it seems to out-compete the hair algae. And it only grows to a fairly thin thickness, then stops.
Sounds a lot like the brown/black slime, only yellow and more solid.
Maybe the LED version??
Hard to scrape off as well. Sticks between the screen and the underlying plate, and it is tough stuff.
Cleaning/seeding helps, but I can't do that forever.
As a result, filtering is not so great. Not bad. I get a lot of algae mass every week. But not a full success.

I am trying to clean screen every few days now. Will see.
I might try propping one plate up, and adding more screen, for a mini-vertical section.
Maybe it is a function of the horizontal aspect, and the mesh/plate build.

Also, I have increased feeding quite a bit, including phyto, which my few corals really like.
Unfortunately, the Aptasia like it even more. Argh. Peppermint shrimp time I think.

Yellow is from too high a light/flow ratio. Reduce the light, or increase the flow.

Now I feel like an idiot.
You gave me the same advice a while back, and it helped.
But with the excitement of the new warm-white LEDs I added, I increased the amount of light, but forgot to crank back the overall time.
Then of course, I forgot your advice.
:oops:
Thanks!

Don't feel bad Rygh. At least you don't have my problem I am to cheap to get a bigger pump. I use

less light instead. One day, I do want to get as much filtration as possible.

Update

Still waiting on my 680 nm led.

http://www.tech-led.com/data/SMB680-1100-I.pdf

Anyone know how to mount these?

I can't seem to find the right MCPCB.

While I am on the subject of mounting.

I have a different pair showing prespawning behavior. Although there cleaning a spot on my heater.( spot to lay eggs)

I turned it off and added a spare heater that I had. I didn't want to disrupt the mojo to much by changing things around.

I might potential have two breeding

pairs out of only five fish. Wow. Hopefully they will do the deed. I will need to separate them if they

turn out to be swingers. lol

Thanks for any help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by inkidu

Anyone know how to mount these?

---

Well, other than a real PCB, my suggestion is this.

First, bend the pins upwards very slightly and very very very gently.
Just enough so that when you glue it down, they do not contact heat sink.

Second, solder wires to pins.
One wire on each side, to all 3 pins at once.

Third, glue it down to a heat sink. (Thermal epoxy )
First, put electrical tape on heat sink where the pins would hit if they are too low.
Make sure to only get glue on the heat sink part of the chip. Center square thermal pad.
It will only take a tiny amount. Hopefully that pad is slightly raised.
It says the center pad is electrically isolated, so should not be an issue there.
But if the glue hits the pins, it will short like crazy.
Alternately: Buy some thermal adhesive tape, like they use to fasten on heat sinks. Cut a small 3mm x 3mm piece,
and stick it to center thermal pad. Easier, less risk of shorting, but may not be strong enough.

Remember, no ESD protection, so take precautions. Maybe even solder in a ESD diode.

An alternative to bending pins is to build a small copper standoff, between chip and heat sink.
Probably 3mm x 3mm x 1.5mm thick.

Good luck. You will need it.
BTW: With a critical center thermal pad like that, it is basically impossible to solder by hand to a PCB anyway.

Anyone looking for a led driver?

A new Meanwell led driver line just became available.

http://www.meanwell.com/product/hlg/hlg.html

Granted they are a bit large but they are very efficient (up to 94%) and have an optional

dimming function. (allows some flexibility with setup)

I have several Meanwell drivers with no complaints.

Hope this helps.

Side note

The discus keep laying eggs maybe twice a month but I think my other tank mates eat them at night.

The eggs don't last past the second day. Might need to separate breeding pair.

I have been using a water softening pillow and have only been adding RO water to top off with no water changes

for quite some time now. Maybe I should test my water(PH, Hardness, etc...) for the first time. lol

Waiting on some PH test strips right now from a ebay seller.

I have been experimenting with misting systems to cool and water my tomato, pepper, and nursery plants.

And then I had a thought that the repeat cycle timer that I use to turn my water solenoid off and on (1sec. on and 59 sec. off)

might have some use with modern LED scrubber lights. (turn light on/off) It seems to me that one of the problems that I have had as well

as others is the lack of flexibility once a system is set up i.e. too much or too little light without the right amount of flow etc...

Let me first describe what a repeat cycle timer is. The timer allows the user to choose how long

the light is on and that choice plays apart in how long the light is off depending on which model is picked. (repeat cycle timer)

http://www.artisancontrols.com/pdf/4600.pdf

The benefit.

You can adjust, once the system is setup, these different times and even with very powerful lights the algae will

have time to rest between times of bright light.

Why this relates to LED lights and algae scrubbers.

1) One of the few lights that instant on/off periods have no affect on the life of the bulb.

2) There are some (this spec needs to be specified) LED drivers that can handle on/off cycles with no problem i.e. flashing lights.

3) From what I have read so far the algae doesn't care how many times the light turns on and off but the balance between photosynthesis and

respiration is of importance.

4) Allows the user to adjust timing with little effort. I use a potentiometer to adjust resistance and therefore the timing of the on/off cycles.

5) The flashing lights lets you get funky on the dance floor.

Things to consider (among the many I have yet to realize)

1) Power in and the power out. (1 amp max) My particular repeat cycle timer has AC going in and AC going out. (many different config.)

Might need a relay. guess???

2) Could there be a benefit (efficiency) in having this type of setup or is it just about flexibility.

This is all fairly intensive DIY work but not out of the realm of what is possible for a novice.

Trust me I am no expert and would appreciate any opinions and/or corrections.

Any thoughts on the use of a repeat cycle timer to turn off and on LED lights?

Hope this helps.

If your using on/off to control the light. I think generally you turn them off for more hours per day. If that isn't going to work. I think most mechanical outlet timers will on/off every 15/20 minutes. This should be fine I'd think instead if doing it more often?

Thanks for the reply.

Like the idea of solid state electronics i.e. the artisan repeat cycle timer $40

The mechanical timer that I own uses those little plastic tabs to turn on and off timer,

which the manufacture only supplies a couple of.

I am sure there are other timers (solid state) but they are probably (???) less flexible and reliable than what I am suggesting.

I am suggesting to some extent smaller intervals (say 30-40 sec. every 1 min.) and strong lighting.

You could even do 3 sec. every 5 sec. the possibilities are endless and once the timer is setup it does the work with no problem.

Whether there would be some benefit in efficiency ( using strong intermittent lighting) is still a ? but there is a flexibility benefit.

Solid state electronics would IMO prove to be more reliable in these circumstances.

Might also be possible that the (slight) PH swings that can occur in FW tanks from running a scrubber would be eliminated.

I always keep in the back of my head that I am trying to run a system with very little water.

(In comparison to the large streams, rivers, and oceans found in nature)

I have read and agree with that PH swings are more detrimental than other water parameter swings (temp., hardness etc.) This being the

case for a FW discus tank.

Reasoning (IMO)

1) Adding soft water (rain) to already fairly soft water probably has little effect on hardness of the water and/or the PH of the waters with a lot of tannins.

2) Changes in water temperature after say the rainy season only stimulates them to spawn, because there is a lot of water present. (a very natural thing)
My water temperature only fluctuates 0.2 of a degree (thanks Digital Aquatics)

3) There is never much of any nutrients in Amazonian waters (the great amount of vegetation consumes any nutrients before reaching the water)
Reason I like algae scrubbers for discus.

I would assume that this is very different for SW. I have been a FW discus guy my whole life.

Hope this helps.

My suggestion would be to get and Arduino microcontroller, and wire up a bunch of relays.
(Or power transistors, if you really care about solid state)
Look at sparkfun.
I got really tired of all the individual timers and everything. Plus, it is cheaper if you have a lot.
Anyone that can wire up an LED system can probably handle the micro.
Plus, you can do a lot more, for example, I have a temperature sensor that can turn on my chiller.
(Soon to be changed, to turning on a fan across the ATS screen)
Bonus: It gives you an endless opportunity of fiddling... :-)

---

Interesting about the new Mean Well drivers.
But I still really prefer the simpler single-chain, specific current devices.
No risks with current sharing. Easier setup.

---

I am not confident the algae will be happy with a 15 minute cycle.
The algae does more that "rest". The organic process changes a lot. Supposedly, most of the growth occurs when it is dark, while energy conversion occurs
when it is light. It takes a while for cells to switch between those processes. Likely far more than 15 minutes.

I did try a 12 hour cycle, and went back to a 24 hour cycle. My impression was that the 24 hour cycle was slightly better, but I changed other things as well,
so I do not consider that very useful data.

Thanks for the reply.

Will look into Arduino microcontroller I have heard about them and I like the concept (open source, many app.)

Good news I just got this email from Marubeni about my 680 nm led. (total of 10)

http://www.tech-led.com/data/SMB680-1100-I.pdf


Hi,

We are shipping your order this week, as early as tomorrow. We will send you a notification when we finish shipping arrangement.


Kumiko Quanrud


Was thinking about the Meanwell HLG-100-48

http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-100/default.htm

I am basing my decision on the ( Forward Current - Forward Voltage graph)

At the low setting of 1.2 amps the forward current will be approx. 3 volts (10*3 = 30 within the constant current region)

At the high setting of 2.0 amps the forward current will be approx. 4 volts (10*4 = 40 within the constant current region)

Both settings seem to lie in the sweet spot of the LED ( judging by the Forward Current - Forward Voltage graph)

Anyone have opinion?

Am I missing something?

Thanks for any help.

Side note.

Seems that I remember about reading that the change between respiration and photosynthesis happens very quickly.(with algae)

The resource

http://www.life.illinois.edu/govindjee/photosynBook/

Whether lab results always carry over to the real world is another thing.

I like to run at 750mA.
So I would have to make 2 chains, and run at 1500mA.
But with 2 chains, if I do something wrong (possible), and one chain stops, then the other
chain gets the full 1500, and fries.
Plus, chains really need to be identical or current will be unbalanced.

Plus, I like to check it with different configurations of LEDs.
With the simpler ones, I just have one chain, and a very wide range of voltage, which means I can
hook up pretty much whatever I want, without thinking about it or tweaking any settings.

On the other hand, it means more drivers, so more expensive.

Just an update on what is going on in the led world for anyone interested.

The Cree XP-G warm white (2800K) led are becoming more available (sometimes a manufacture comes out with cool whites first then as time passes they release other types i.e. warm white, neutral, outdoor etc....)
XPGWHT-L1-8B1-Q4-0-01 Warm White 8B (IMO would be a good choice)
http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Cree+XPG (scroll to the bottom)

The Cree XM-L will be out in couple months but will probably need to wait on the warm whites.

I mention these things because the tech changes so quickly and the new led are significantly better.

The new Cree XM-L (single die)can handle 2 mA and produces about as much as a 60 watt bulb i.e. 750 lumen.

That is 7 watt led can replace a 60 watt incandescent bulb.

WOW

http://ledinside.com/News_cree_LED_20100513

Those and a MEANWELL HLG-100-48 could make quite a big setup.

http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-100/default.htm

I like that lens at the bottom of the Cutter page.

More LED news.

A cheap and efficient deep red LED from Osram

LH W5AM-1T3T-1-L-Z

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Osr ... NWtQ%3d%3d

Still need to get my feet wet on mounting these LED emitters to boards but it is nice to see some more options become available.

Hope this helps.

I think the led scrubber will be feasible soon... just got to get the initial price down.

Well, if you are willing to go with cheap ebay warm white + red LEDs, the cost is down.

You can buy those 3W LEDs for less than $2 with shipping off ebay.
So a 35W system ends up only about $60 or so.
Get some volume discounts, and a cheaper power supply, and that is $50 or less.
Which is about the same as a good T5 setup.

Sure, not as efficient as our fancy deep-red thoughts (maybe), but good enough.

Experimental results:
I did this mostly as curiosity, and to test my new main-tank LED sets.
But very relevent on how it shows very clearly how the wrong spectrum can render an ATS useless.

The left side is driven by my new main tank LED set. 2 x XP-G Cool white + XP-E Royal Blue.
A fairly common 10,000K-12,000K equivalent bluish light. Looks really nice in my tank.
The right side is driven by my algae-specialized LED set. 2 x Deep Red + 1 x Blue.

This picture is the lighting. Obvious color difference.
[attachment=1:27gtj9nq]experiment_1.jpg[/attachment:27gtj9nq]

This other picture is the result. You can clearly see the lack of algae growth on the left.
Unfortunately I did not take a pic earlier, but it turned a rather ugly dark brown. I scraped that off,
and basically very little grew there afterwards.
Note: Resolutions/angles are different, but that line of good/bad lines up with LEDs.
[attachment=0:27gtj9nq]experiment_2.jpg[/attachment:27gtj9nq]

Yes a dark brown growth is a symptom of the lighting not being strong enough relative to the nutrient levels. Thus, dark growth to start, until nutrients come down, then lighter growth. But your red led's deliver more lighting for growth, and thus the green growth is able to "power through" and grow right away.

More LED news.

Notice the second paragraph. (warm white LED)

http://www.led-professional.com/technol ... in-the-lab

In case the link breaks search this.

Epistar Red-Orange LED Chips Set Efficacy Record in the Lab

Still in development but it is encouraging to see the development of the red led tech ( AlGaInP, AlGaAs etc...) instead of mainly "blue/cool white" led.

Hope this helps

Yes, interesting news.
Fortunately for our main tanks, we like the current extra blue used in the conversion to warm.
But for lights around the house, sounds great.

More led news.

The new Cree XM-L cool white led are shipping Mid Nov..

http://cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Cree+XM-L

These are the latest and greatest cool white led available.

Notice the maximum drive current: 3000 mA WOW! (this # for a single die led is very large)

Times are changing.

Hope this helps.

An amusing note:
Because of the ongoing build for my new tank, I left the poor white/blue section as-is.
The funny thing is, I am getting a bit of Coraline algae growth there.
Guess Coraline likes the blue.

Note that with 1/3 of the filter not doing well, I definitely get more nuisance algae in the main tank.

I will be using that one if I got my tank bigger than what I use now. But for now, I am using an ordinary light but I plan to replace it by a led light bulb. My friend explained to me that these lights consume less electricity than the other light bulbs.

Well this is my first time to read an LED light bulb can grow algae. I am using in growing the algae is the old steps but now there are modern LED scrubber light to algae. Now I decided to change my old light bulb in my tank in much good result I will replace a LED light bulb so my algae can grow regularly.

Remember that LED's are for experimenting only... do not use them if you must have filtering that works.

More LED news.

Cree Launches Highest-Performance Warm & Neutral White Lighting-Class LED

http://www.cree.com/press/press_deta...=1299160266032

I order some neutral and some warm to see how well they work.

Hope this helps.

Is anyone making a power led-wall, with high power and consistent intensity across a large surface? I've seen low power walls for signage backlighting, but nothing meant to project high power.

Just finalising scrubber design now, it's currently planned to have panels of LEDs attached to the wall the tank sits on top of (it's a 220g in-wall tank) to light a single sided vertical scrubber (75cm * 40cm).

Will certainly let you know how it goes.

I talked to my regional Cree rep about XM-Ls vs XP-Gs. XM-Ls just might be too intense. You would have to diffuse them so much that it might just make more sense to get a couple XP-Gs and diffuse them only a little.

The micro-diamond diffusion grating from Lowes/Home depot works great for diffusing LEDs.
Basically, it is an acrylic sheet, with little pointy diamond shapes on one side.
If memory serves, about $10 for a 2' x 4' sheet.
Put it about half way in between LEDs and screen.

It scatters light well, with fairly low loss.
I do not see any point source issues on my scrubber after using it.

Since it is flat on one side, you can easily glue two together if you want.

---

Interesting about the new XP-G warm whites.
Although not sure it really makes much difference. From my experimenting, key is to have lots of red.
My best results (although limited not-very-scientific testing) was 2 x red + 1 x blue + 1 x warm white.

---

Someone PM's me with some interesting reading:
http://en.phyco.org/wiki/Algal_Light_Requirements

More LED news.

Just something someone might want to try out.
light coverage is rather square which would be good for our purposes
and mounting system is easy to use/update (watch video)
Notice also the custom spectra choices and the high IP rating

http://www.theledstore.com.au/product_p/ls0017.htm

As far as that make I have no experience.

Hope this helps.

Just curious-how are the LED scrubbers doing these days?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by salty joe

Just curious-how are the LED scrubbers doing these days?

---

For me, I am happy.
I have some pictures here, about half way down:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=645&start=30

I have become really lazy on water changes. :)

I do have a bit of hair algae in the main tank.
But recently, it is looking a bit less healthy, so I am encouraged by that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rygh

I have become really lazy on water changes.

---

Happy to see things going well.
LED and a algae scrubber IMO are all about less maintenance/work. (I like to say less expense???) Time will tell.
There is the engineering fun behind it of course also.

More led news

Affordable warm white led on the horizon? Hopefully

http://bridgelux.com/media-center/categ ... -releases/

Hope this helps.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by inkidu

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rygh

I have become really lazy on water changes.

---

Happy to see things going well.
LED and a algae scrubber IMO are all about less maintenance/work. (I like to say less expense???) Time will tell.
There is the engineering fun behind it of course also.

More led news

Affordable warm white led on the horizon? Hopefully

http://bridgelux.com/media-center/categ ... -releases/

Hope this helps.

---

Interesting! It would be great if the price of WW LEDs drops a lot.
But for turf scrubbers - ehh - Not a fan of warm white anyway. Red+Blue!

So what is the current cost of 100 watts of red+blue, if it's 1000 pieces of 100mw each

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SantaMonica

So what is the current cost of 100 watts of red+blue, if it's 1000 pieces of 100mw each

---

Not sure about 100mw LEDS. Assume you meant the cheap 5mm little ones.
I also assume you mean buying mass-bulk, since a DIY hobbyist would go insane doing that many pieces.
A quick check, 100W looks like about $60.
Looks like you can get 20mA (50mw), red 5mm LEDs for about $0.02 to $0.04, so lets call it 3 cents.

Note that those little ones are not as efficient as the bigger ones.

I think that distribution is more important than efficiency. If you think about how much of a difference moving a cfl a few inches makes, think about how the LED intensity changes by moving outside of it's beam cone will alter growth. And of course it would be done with wave soldering.

With 1000 per side, you can lose 20 or 30 and not really even notice it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SantaMonica

I think that distribution is more important than efficiency. If you think about how much of a difference moving a cfl a few inches makes, think about how the LED intensity changes by moving outside of it's beam cone will alter growth. And of course it would be done with wave soldering.

With 1000 per side, you can lose 20 or 30 and not really even notice it.

---

Too bad there is no real volume for these things, it might be fun to really build a production board.

Light distribution issues can be fixed with a very cheap diffusion grating. Available at lowes, OSH, etc, about $10 for a 2x4 sheet.
I definitely use one, and as such, have no issues.

Interestingly, I think some of the standard CFL systems I see here would also benefit from some cheap diffusion grating in
front, and better reflectors in back. Optics seems to be a neglected part of many builds.

More led news

High efficiency and high output royal blue led from Cree.
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXT-E_ROY.pdf

Hope this helps.

TWO YEARS !!!!
8-)

Amazingly, it has been two years now since I started my first LED based scrubber.
I started this thread the next day.

I did have to upgrade my scrubber - when I changed to a larger tank.
And I switched to a true vertical double sided.
BUT: Other than the additional ones, the LEDs are the same ones I started with.
Nice not to have to change bulbs, and I think I saved a lot of energy in those 2 years.

Overall, still very happy with it.
Nitrates = 0
Phophates = 0
No nuisance hair alage.

I do still run a skimmer, and plan to long term.
I also run a bit of carbon, and I do the occasional water change.
But a lot less chems/water changes than other reef friends I know.

Tank is still in slow progress though.
Only a couple of SPS frags.

Lots of room for the frags to take over.

(Posting test after the new forum change) Thanks SM
It's nice to see the tank progressing after 2 years with a led setup Rygh.
It's also nice to see more people using led. While many people have used led for SW main lights now the scrubber people have also started to
adopt a led approach as well. Especially when you can go wavelength specific.
I have always wanted to go vertical but after seeing that SM has come up with something new I got to wait.
Hope you have continued growth.

Rygh, you perhaps have the most LED experience. I started this thread to try and pool as much info as I can and would appreciate anything you have to add

http://algaescrubber.net/forums/show...nes-and-Builds

Also lots of pics don't show up right after the transfer, a few new ones or reposted old ones would be great

Thanks

link fixed

http://algaescrubber.net/forums/show...nes-and-Builds