Nice!!
Type: Posts; User: Bacon
Nice!!
"new technology" lol
Yes! Finally!
Remember, just scrape the screen and rinse lightly - do not scrub it with a brush. Your next growth cycle should have more green and less of the yellow gooey stuff.
That is great for 4 days! Post another video at 7 or 8 days, but don't clean it...it might not need it until day 10, or 14, or later even.
Finally....GREEN!!!
The reason that you're not getting growth in the middle where the intensity is the highest is probably because of low feeding and large screen. But that's OK - it should...
A reef tank will generally go through a wide variety of things during the firs year. Big swings in things we can't measure as hobbyists. The best thing to do is let nature take it's course and not...
Growth is looking better, just let it continue growing (no cleaning quite yet)
That's a bristleworm
rubber spatula was a good idea. Screen looks good.
I think I would just let it grow, your goal is to get some green growth to replace the brown, so at the most you would just loosen up the brown with your fingers or palm and rinse it. Maybe try...
Do not scrape unless you have growth that is thick enough to block light to the base, and won't come off any other way. I haven't seen a pic of your screen yet that tells me you need to scrape it. ...
They're probably not fireworms, they're probably bristleworms. Check to make sure. Bristleworms are scavengers and are just fine
That's pretty minimal feeding, probably less than 1/4 cube/day. Run the lights as I suggested and see what happens
It's not growing at all, in general. I would change your hours to 12 total and split it up into 2 hour segments with about 30-60 minutes between. So:
2 on
1 off
2 on
1 off
2 on
1 off
2 on...
You should never really "scrub" the screen with a brush, this just sets you back. I don't see anything yellow, or at least, not significant enough to be of concern.
At this point you should...
I don't know what is preventing your screen from growing, but just let it continue to grow for another 10 days.
How much do you feed your fish every day?
nope, keep it up. Dark green = higher nutrients, light green = lower nutrients. As long as you are feeding, your algae will grow. You might even run the LEDs longer.
It doesn't look like you have any significant coral growth, so trace elements are not a concern. These are generally replaced by water changes and/or feeding (if you feed a variety of food, and good...
Light level is good. Reflectors look good too. This is not the issue.
Flow looks fine to me. This is not the issue
There's nothing wrong at this point because...
^^ this. you can't...
You have nothing to clean off, so no, don't clean it. Something is not right if you still have a bare screen after this long. Do not clean at all until you have some growth. Let it grow for another...
I've let screens grow too long and everything comes out of the holes, on cleaning, leaving almost nothing behind except for some coloration and algae attached to various cross-pieces, and it bounces...
I guess I should have said that calcification in general seems to be the key, and that happens on all systems to some extent. So as soon as the surface you are using starts to get a calcification...
My guess is that any smooth surface that grows algae is actually growing algae on top of a calcification layer. Think about it. scrub your glass with a magfloat and any spots of coralline that...
Gotcha. there certainly can be other factors at play, such as chemical warfare. I've even read somewhere that certain corals and anemones can exude chemicals that inhibit algae. So in certain...
You want at least 1/2" of clearance to acrylic, if not a bit more. Reds are not so critical to worry about vs blues, which will cause damage more quickly (over time - months). LED spacing is fine...
You're missing one factor and that is once your screen is established it can out-compete tank algae, if maintained right. I usually hear complaints of people scrubbing algae out of their tank...
Right, I go back pretty far as well...30 years in FW to be exact. But you prove my point, you don't need much light to grow algae. What you need is the right light, and then you must provide an...
This is the argument that GHA grows in tanks under the high K spectrum, so why shouldn't one use a high K spectrum in a scrubber? Meaning, it would make sense to run all cool white and royal blue...
LEDs are way too close to the screen. You're causing photosaturation. Need to back them off a bit. Also is that an acrylic sump? The LEDs are intense and if they are right up against the sump...
Pics of current setup?
Don't worry about it. It will eventually fill in. Just leave it be, if it's still a problem 2-3 months down the road, then you can modify it. Also be careful not to cinch the zip ties too tight...
You don't **have** to clean it every 7 days. Let it grow, if it doesn't have enough growth to scrape off, don't clean it. go 14 days minimum, if not longer. It should not take you more than 8...
Ah. I would have probably left the coraline algae on it, that's a good growth substrate
When you say "new screen side" what do you mean? Do you have 2 screens, or is that just the side with the new light?
You have to dilute with fresh saltwater or saltwater from a tank with a known zero value. You can't dilute SW with FW for a test kit that is based on SW.
Hanna checker may or may not get screwed...
You can order 660s directly from Steve's LEDs, they ship internationally. And you would get good quality LEDs. I don't have faith in the 5050 SMDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFgNrR7X3U8
After video - it looks like you really cleaned it hard, did you scrub it with a brush?
those links are to the same video...
this one was what I've seen used more often
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-150-Watt-Incandescent-Clamp-Light-CE-300PDQ/100354511?N=5yc1vZbm7i
Not sure about the plastic one, but probably OK
This is what was confusing me...when someone says "equivalent" they are generally referring to the incandescent equivalent listed on the box - like when one says "23W CFL, equivalent to 100W". All...
Pics would help
A couple questions:
Based on your other thread - 80g seahorse tank, correct?
How much do you feed?
How big is your screen?
The normal range Hanna Checker Phosphate has an error range of +/- 0.04, so it's possible that your 2 tests prior read low and this one read high. I've tested back to back and got consistent results...
Cutting the packet across 2 edges and opening it up like a mouth is the key. Either that, or take an index card, make a crease, pour contents on to the index card, and use that to funnel the reagent...
http://algaescrubber.net/forums/showthread.php?3236-Hanna-phosfaat-checker-problem
IMO I don't think you can reduce P that fast with a relatively new scrubber.
If you are using the Hanna Checker ULR Phosphate, then you need to 1) follow a rigorous testing procedure and 2) mark...
Iron is very volatile in a reef tank, not saying dangerous, but rather, it reacts quickly with anything that it can react with. That's why it's very difficult to maintain a readable level in a reef...
28 vs 35 GPH/in should not make that much of a difference. How much are you feeding? Are you using the LEDs fixtures?
I was asking cracker if his measurement was total GPH or per inch. Hence the reason I quoted his post
Is that 28 GPH per inch, or total? Widening the slot should not be needed unless it's less than 1/8", or not even.
The reason people keep multiple filtration systems running is because what if one fails? For any reason, lots of reasons. Also skimmers are not just nutrient export, there are functions that...
Still confused - is the bubble counter connected to the top hole of the HOG? Where the air comes out? If so, why the airline? why not just connect it right above the HOG?