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Thread: ATS on RSM 130D

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    2

    ATS on RSM 130D

    Hey, my name is Stig and i live in Denmark.

    I've had a RSM 130D running for 9 month now.
    i have a sump build into the cabinet, and there i have mounted a Scrubber.

    The Screen is 8" wide and the flow is app. 300 gph.
    It is lit by 2 X 23 w CFT. The one in the housing is a R7 socket and 4200K.
    i canīt find other bulbs with R7 socket with lower Kelvin values.
    The other bulb also needs some kind of reflector of course.
    So i plan on rebuilding the lights.
    My question is:
    Will these bulbs work?
    [attachment=2:ay5aiwl5]IMG_3222-1024.jpg[/attachment:ay5aiwl5]
    [attachment=1:ay5aiwl5]IMG_3220-1024.jpg[/attachment:ay5aiwl5]
    I plan to use 4 on each side of the screen.
    That will give me 8 x 7 Watts of light in 2700K.
    Due to the very compact design, i don't have room for big reflektors
    Another question is:
    When you look at my screen, you see that the colour of the algae is green along the sides,
    but brown in the middle. What is the reason for this?
    [attachment=0:ay5aiwl5]IMG_3226-1024.jpg[/attachment:ay5aiwl5]
    This Scrubber has only been running for 3 weeks, but i hope it will improve my water quality.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Administrator
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    Oct 2008
    Location
    Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
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    Re: ATS on RSM 130D

    Several smaller bulbs will work fine.

    Bald spots are caused by too much light relative to how much iron the algae is getting. The more light that algae gets, the more iron it needs too. CFL bulbs tend to make bald spots because all the light is concentrated in one spot, while the edges of the screen don't get enough light. Aside from switching to T5HO bulbs, here are your options from best to worst:

    1. Get more flow. This will deliver more iron to the algae and let it grow again in the bald spot. Your screen needs to be very rough, however, to hold on to the algae in the higher flow.

    2. Add iron, such as Kent's Iron+Manganese, per the instructions.

    3. If adding iron did not fix it, and you can't add flow, then move the lights farther back. This will spread the light out more evenly across the screen.

    4. If you can't move the lights back, then either use smaller bulbs, or reduce the number of hours that the lights are on.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    2

    Re: ATS on RSM 130D

    Quote Originally Posted by SantaMonica
    Several smaller bulbs will work fine.

    Bald spots are caused by too much light relative to how much iron the algae is getting. The more light that algae gets, the more iron it needs too. CFL bulbs tend to make bald spots because all the light is concentrated in one spot, while the edges of the screen don't get enough light. Aside from switching to T5HO bulbs, here are your options from best to worst:

    1. Get more flow. This will deliver more iron to the algae and let it grow again in the bald spot. Your screen needs to be very rough, however, to hold on to the algae in the higher flow.

    2. Add iron, such as Kent's Iron+Manganese, per the instructions.

    3. If adding iron did not fix it, and you can't add flow, then move the lights farther back. This will spread the light out more evenly across the screen.

    4. If you can't move the lights back, then either use smaller bulbs, or reduce the number of hours that the lights are on.
    Thanks for a quick repply.

    1. The only way to increase flow, is to reduce screen size. If i'm going to buy a new screen, should it be 7 or 10 HPI?

    3-4. I have to work on the position of the light. It is a very compact design, but then i just have to be creative.
    Otherwise i have to rebuild the sump, or build a new sump special made for ATS.

  4. #4
    Administrator
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    Oct 2008
    Location
    Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
    Posts
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    Re: ATS on RSM 130D

    5 or 7 holes per inch is good.

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