Yes the original test version requires glass cleaning with each screen cleaning. Salt creep is just a design parameter, however; the next version has very little.
Yes the original test version requires glass cleaning with each screen cleaning. Salt creep is just a design parameter, however; the next version has very little.
Yeah the glass cleaning might end up being a deal breaker for the UAS as right now mine is in an acrylic sump.
Thread with my current build of UAS: Here
150g seahorse system:
75g seahorse DT
25g deep sand bed fuge and cheato tumbler
55g sump
40g fuge for pod production
Arduino based controller for dimmable LEDS and lights over fuges, heater/chiller, ATO and RO/DI production.
Temps run between 70-73*F.
Photos of the horses and DT:http://s161.photobucket.com/albums/t...mbo/Seahorses/
Hello!
I am running an "in tank" version, and as SM say the salt creep is just an design parameter. I have no salt creep, no bubbles escaping to the tank and no cleaning of the display glass
Even though the design is an "in tank" version is is made as an closed box with plexi glass to let the light get to the screen. The whole scrubber box have to be cleaned of algaes though, but that is easely done when cleaning the screen, just lifting the whole box out of the tank and clean it in the sink when cleaning the screen.
jnad
I look forward to seeing that. The idea of the UAS is great. That is why I'm holding out on building anything right now of more permanent design. Thanks for the replyOriginally Posted by SantaMonica
When are we having the new design SantaMonica? couldn't you just skip a few days and publish it today ? come on man !! don't play hard
A general scrubber question: Do you all rinse/thaw your cubes of frozen mysis before feeding the tank? I know that seahorse owners are STRONGLY suggested to rinse before feeding to cut back on 'waste' products entering the system that isn't consumed by the seahorse.
But I wonder if the scrubber ratings are for the entire content of the cube, not just the mysis itself, if my scrubber wouldn't have to be as large. Or would it be in my interest to feed the entire cube and let the extras be food for corals/etc until they are converted down to the scrubber?
Any thoughts?
Thread with my current build of UAS: Here
150g seahorse system:
75g seahorse DT
25g deep sand bed fuge and cheato tumbler
55g sump
40g fuge for pod production
Arduino based controller for dimmable LEDS and lights over fuges, heater/chiller, ATO and RO/DI production.
Temps run between 70-73*F.
Photos of the horses and DT:http://s161.photobucket.com/albums/t...mbo/Seahorses/
If you're talking PE mysis and a coldwater non-coral seahorse tank, that is pretty specific conditions and I would do whatever is suggested by seahorse keepers (I believe rinsing is in order). I even rinse that stuff before adding to my DIY reef food, it's greasy stuff. But the stuff from Brine Shrimp Direct or the like is much less to worry about, just thaw & pour off, maybe a quick rinse in RODI but that's it.
I have a bunch of soft coral and I'm wondering if they would gain benefit from the extra "stuff"...
Thread with my current build of UAS: Here
150g seahorse system:
75g seahorse DT
25g deep sand bed fuge and cheato tumbler
55g sump
40g fuge for pod production
Arduino based controller for dimmable LEDS and lights over fuges, heater/chiller, ATO and RO/DI production.
Temps run between 70-73*F.
Photos of the horses and DT:http://s161.photobucket.com/albums/t...mbo/Seahorses/
Sizing does not matter, drained or not. The nutrients are the same, and are all in the solid food, which are converted quickly into urine by the animals. Urine (ammonia/ammonium) is mostly what grows the algae.
http://algaescrubber.net/forums/show...-Holmes-Farley
Yes, I have with fantastic results.I'm designing my scrubber now and using one of my acrylic air stones. I'll show you it once I'm done.
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