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Thread: Phosphate that won't go away

  1. #141

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    I dont see how the chart above has anything to do with the amount of potassium found in sea water.

  2. #142
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    A question for anyone running a freshwater planted tank - what are the advised potassium concentrations in a freshwater tank ?

  3. #143
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    Unfortunately I think I have concluded my testing with Potassium. After 7 days straight of dosing 50ml for about 80G of water, yesterdays test revealed I am up to 400 (natural sea water levels) and I don't want to go above it. I am not seeing any real significant decreases with phosphates by dosing potassium, what I have experienced seems to be more along the lines of natural fluctuations. Any time I feed, 24 hours later my phosphates are spiked, every time, regardless of potassium dosing. I know my test was far from a 'controlled test', but I think I have seen enough for me to believe potassium isn't the limiting factor (I still believe it is Nitrates in the majority of systems). So back to the drawing board, find a way to increase nitrates, or find a way to naturally decrease phosphates (back to my UV/IR lit bio-reactor idea).

  4. #144

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    Maybe à route like the planted tanks:
    http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/PMDD.htm

  5. #145
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    Think your right Ace. To answer my own question, 10 to 20ppm potassium in freshwater tanks. Both nitrate and phosphate limitation happens in massive areas of the ocean. However a manipulation of the algae may be possible to skew the uptake rates through light spectrum, intensity, or a miriad of other possibilities even down to screen cleaning periods.

  6. #146

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    Ace25 I'll put my formula I got my No3 1.1ppm to 25ppm with a smoothie with whole shrimp and conch, Ocean Nutrition formula 1 and 2, that were increased no3, my phosphates were very low at only rose to 0.02ppm to 0.8ppm, all that happened in a 48 hour period

    regards

  7. #147

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    I've just recently started reading back through threads on this site, but does anyone remember any tests where a screen is maintained with good growth based just on fertilizing an empty tank with a standard plant fertilizer like Seachem flourish?

    If we already know that such an off the shelf fertilizer can maintain the growth on a screen, maybe another approach in this situation would be to just use a full fertilizer instead of specific molecules.
    That way we could confirm that it is a nutrient limitation (N,K,Fe) and not some other factor?

  8. #148

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    i read this on RC. sounds like the best idea to me "The best/least complicated, and likely most enjoyable, way to supplement NO3s, in order to more efficiently lower PO4 in a system highly capable of processing these extra nutrients, is to elevate the biological load via increasing the number/density of fishes"

  9. #149
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    Someone here had just an empty tank and fed it fert. I dont even remember the details except that there was an issue with high nutrients.
    150G. Reef/Mix
    125G. 3 Regular Oscars/1 Jack Dempsey
    75G. 20+ Africans
    40G. Fish/Reef. Algae Scrubbers on ALL my SW
    10G. SW Fish/Reef.
    10G. SW Hospital/new fish quarantine/pod breeder tank
    6 stage RO/DI system 200 GPD.

  10. #150
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    Yeah he dumped in a whole bunch of fertilizer and even hung a bag of dog poop in the water.

    http://algaescrubber.net/forums/show...ing-the-Limits

    personally I would prefer to try the seachem flourish scrubber instead of the dog poop scrubber.

    Then there's also my master plan, which is still floating around in the back of my mind

    http://algaescrubber.net/forums/show...rce-Experiment

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