New Build with LEDs and questions

[Bilk]

I'm making my first ATS for a 50g cube. Space is limited below and in the sump so I designed a compact scrubber and plan on using these led pucks since they're waterproof.

The screen size will be 7"x9" and illuminated both sides. I calculated I will need 12 pucks on each side. Each puck is 4.62watts x 12 pucks = 55.44 watts per side. Each side will have an aluminum reflector. Does anyone see any issues with this design?

[Bilk]

I am not sure I calculated the wattage correctly. Their site isn't very clear about the specs. I'll have to call them tomorrow when they're open. I like the idea of using these pucks as they're waterproof and designed for submersible use. Hopefully they're suitable.

[SantaMonica]

You'd want the red ones...

http://www.creativelightings.com/Red...od-12wc-rd.htm

...looks like they are 0.33 watts each, so a 7 X 9 = 63 square inch screen (at 1/2 watt per inch) would need a total of about 30 LED watts, which would be 15 pucks on each side, which would handle 5+ cubes of food per day. At 1/4 watt per inch, you could try it with 8 pucks per side.

Looks like they also have ribbons...

http://www.creativelightings.com/Rub...-5m-12v-rd.htm

[Bilk]

Thanks for the reply and assistance. I did consider the red but thought the total color temp was more important. I didn't order yet as I still have questions about their ordering process regarding these leds.

I guess I need to be clear about how to size the screen. I should size it to the amount of food I feed vs the system volume? The system is not yet set up and I don't know how I will stock it other than mostly sps. If my feeding is less, do I need to reduce the size of the screen and thus the amount of light?

[Bilk]

I looked at the ribbon leds but they were much more expensive. The pucks look to be perfect as I can order what I need and the cost is about 1/3rd of the ribbon. I guess they would be perfect for a large ATS.

[SantaMonica]

Yes size it to feeding:

Scrubbers are sized according to feeding. Nutrients "in" (feeding) must equal nutrients "out" (scrubber growth), no matter how many gallons or liters you have. So...

An example VERTICAL upflow or waterfall screen size is 3 X 4 inches = 12 square inches of screen (7.5 X 10 cm = 75 sq cm) with a total of 12 real watts (not equivalent) of fluorescent light for 18 hours a day. If all 12 watts are on one side, it is a 1-sided screen. If 6 watts are on each side, it is a 2-sided screen, but the total is still 12 watts for 18 hours a day. This screen size and wattage should be able to handle the following amounts of daily feeding:

1 frozen cube per day (2-sided screen), or
1/2 frozen cube per day (1-sided screen), or
10 pinches of flake food per day (2-sided screen), or
5 pinches of flake food per day (1-sided screen), or
10 square inches (60 sq cm) of nori per day (2-sided screen), or
5 square inches (30 sq cm) of nori per day (1-sided screen), or
0.1 dry ounce (2.8 grams) of pellet food per day (2-sided screen), or
0.05 dry ounce (1.4 grams) of pellet food per day (1-sided screen)

High-wattage technique: Double the wattage, and cut the hours in half (to 9 per day). This will get brown screens to grow green much faster. Thus the example above would be 12 watts on each side, for a total of 24 watts, but for only 9 hours per day. If growth starts to turn YELLOW, then increase the flow, or add iron, or reduce the number of hours. And since the bulbs are operating for 9 hours instead of 18, they will last 6 months instead of 3 months.

HORIZONTAL screens: Multiply the screen size by 4, and the wattage by 1 1/2. Flow is 24 hours, and is at least 35 gph per inch of width of screen [60 lph per cm], EVEN IF one sided or horizontal.

LEDs: Use half the wattage as above. 660nm (red) is best. You can mix in a little 450nm (blue) if you want.

Very rough screen made of roughed-up-like-a-cactus plastic canvas.

Clean algae off of the screen:

Every 7 to 21 days, or
When it's black, or
When it fills up, or
When algae lets go, or
When nutrients start to rise

[Bilk]

Well after not being able to reach the distributor of the pucks I posted above, these are what I am going with in red. They're waterproof and wafer thin and come on strings, allowing for utilizing as many as you need. They should work out pretty well. I'm using 4 puck modules on each side of a 6"x6" screen.

Edit: After doing some calculations and utilizing the spread sheet, I upped the number of led pucks to 8 per side with a 6x7 screen. I'll post pics of the final product.

[Floyd R Turbo]

A good rule of thumb though is that if there is no heat sink needed, they are not intense enough. So if you're going to use them - pack them in as tight as you can, and maybe they will work. but likely not as effectively as 1W or 3W on stars. Just saying.

[Bilk]

A good rule of thumb though is that if there is no heat sink needed, they are not intense enough. So if you're going to use them - pack them in as tight as you can, and maybe they will work. but likely not as effectively as 1W or 3W on stars. Just saying.

LOL just happened to be perusing the site and saw your post come thru.

Well they will be about 1" from the screen both sides. They seem really bright for what they are. According to the specs, each puck is 75 lumens and a string of 4 is 6.7 watts. With 8 pucks per side that's 600 lumens and 13.4 watts. I think that's equivalent to a 9watt CFL on each side.

Well if it doesn't work, I'm buying one of your L2s

[Bilk]

Has anyone considered utilizing two screens, each illuminated from one side. Start on screen off a few days ahead of the second, this way cleaning is staggered and the scrubber keeps working as intended?

Is there a benefit to this where export remains higher than always starting off with a clean screen?