Enclosed are moderately detailed plans for an LED scrubber light.
This uses 5 state of the are high power, high efficiency LEDs. (3 warm white, 2 red)
It produces about 7,500 lux at 4" on a 6x9 scrubber. It uses about 15W.
Which I measure at a bit less light than 2 x 26W CFLs.
But should also have better wavelengths for plants.
It uses about 15W. So is considerably more efficient.
It costs about $70 to make. Cheap long term.
And everything near tank is only about 20V or so. Far less than dangerous 120V(600V) CFL.
It does produce a lot of light. Stay tuned for real Algae results.
I am worried it is too much.
PICTURES WILL BE INCLUDED BELOW
It produces about 7500 lux at 4 inches, over a 8x12 turf scrubber.
In comparison, two 26W CFL floods produce about 3100 lux over the same area.
* BIG Correction: CFLs produce about 9,900 lux over that area. Light was not warmed up enough during first measurement.
The wavelengths are plant-optimized, so very pink looking light.
It uses about 15W of power.
So it is about 3X as efficient, purely based on power/ lux measurements.
Given the wavelengths, that should go higher.
Picture of the lights on. Note that this was taken in a brightly lit room, but camera
had to drop the gain way down. It is much more pink/white than orange.
Digital camera has issues.
Purchased from ledsupply.com, for about $68.
Part numbers from their online store included.
2 x Luxeon Red K2 Star Low Current 05027-PD12
3 x Luxeon K2 TFFC Star 140 Lumen 05027-PWW4-140
1 x Xitanium: Xitanium 17W 700mA Off-line Driver XI-LED120A0700C24F
1 x XIitanium Driver Connector 1365323-1
Arctic Silver thermal epoxy.
2x2 x 3 aluminum angle. Thin.
9 x 12 x Ύ plywood
6x12 thin plexiglass.
Power cord, small red and black wires, screws, misc.
STEP 1: Build board and heat sinks/brackets:
Cut board to size. Mine was 9x12, but match your ATS.
If you have a router and 45-degree bit:
Drill holes slightly larger than LED stars.
Route out around the holes.
Otherwise, just cut larger holes for the LED stars.
Cut the 2x2 aluminum angle iron into 6 strips.
Rough on outer side, for gluing later.
My holes were a bit close together, so I offset them. No real need for that.
Then paint. Best is OUTDOOR, flat white.
Now, screw the angle brackets to the back of the board, vertically.
Rough side facing through holes.
Label them. Left->Right. Label board as well.
Trace a circle onto aluminum where you can see it through holes.
Drill 2 small holes for wires, in aluminum, about Ύ apart, at very edge of hole.
Now, remove angle brackets from board.
STEP 2: Build LEDs on brackets.
First, solder red wire to +, and black wire to -, on LED stars.
Does not matter which side.
Then, insert wires through small holes you drilled in aluminum bracket.
Find small clamps / clothespins.
You should be able to clamp LED stars inside the small circle you traced.
Wires should be inside as well.
Check it with board.
If all is well, mix up the thermal epoxy, and glue them all down.
Clamp very loosely. Only use a thin layer of epoxy.
Steps 1+2 can be done in one day. Let paint an epoxy dry.
STEP 3: Connect it all up.
Screw angle brackets back onto board. Be careful of LEDs.
Then wire it all up.
Plus from power supply -> 4 foot long wire -> Red(+) of first LED.
Black(-) of first LED to Red(+) of second LED.
Connect Black to Red for the rest.
Final Black(-) of last LED -> 4 foot long wire -> Minus on power supply.
Then connect power cord to power supply line side.
Fat plug is neutral. Thinner one is line.
The 4 foot long wire is optional. It simply allows you to put power supply and all 120V things
well away from the tank.
Test is quickly.
If all is well, I suggest soldering all connections.
STEP 4: splash guard.
Cut a thin piece of acrylic to cover front.
This is somewhat optional, if there is no splash.
I added small Ό standoffs, to keep acrylic from heating up, but that was really not needed at all.