Modern LED scrubber light

No but it could work. Led or otherwise. With led's, it would be like the screen I posted, but one-sided led's, and laying down.

You could almost think a light-screen as flypaper; as soon as it fills up, there is no more "stickyness'" for more algae.

So would a one sided screen in those dimentions work for a tank of say 300L? or would it need to be bigger?

Then what wattage would we need? Ive seen 15w to aobut 25W in the flat panel style.

Diffusion of light would just be a matter of some plastic fluro lighting gear like what you see in supermarkets.

My experiments with 3w white led seem that the angle of lense is to great as the light spot where its focused is too bright. I have to move them far away from the screen say about 15-20cm to get a larger light spread. You can see this on the pics I posted. Just a thought when playing with the light screen Idea.

Santa your light screen would be cheaper to make too I would think once the design gets tweaked.

If you are asking me, I have no idea what size or wattage would be needed for anything. It has not been done. One thing, it would be weaker that a regular scrubber, because of the growth-stoppage.

I know its not led but I thought this was interesting.

http://www.parans.com/

Take a look at these freakish things sst-90 red (forward voltage 2.2 at 6.3 amps 800 lm)

http://www.luminus.com/stuff/contentmgr ... nation.pdf

I found them on the avnet site,never ordered from, for $33. What I think might be useful

is that they bin for wavelength. rygh wrote "However, it might even be a win to emphasize the B spectrum,

to help it out compete algae that only has A." So maybe you can better dial in exactly what you need.

I have found out that you can't always find out what bin # ( mouser for ex. ) unless you buy a 1000/a lot.

I am also coming to realize that the absorption spectra can change. Trying to figure this out now.

Just trying suggest some options I notice it does not have near the lifetime of the deep reds I got from ledengin.

Hope this helps.

So I am pretty sure what I will do.
I have been busy constructing a single sided, 6.5" wide x 30"long (35" with ends) next generation ATS.
I will use 2 sets of LED lights. One at first, for experimenting, and comparing with CFL.
Each set:
- 4 deep red, LedEngin
- 4 red or red/orange K2s
- 2 blue K2s
- 2 royal blue K2s
So a ratio of 2:1 red/blue. And deep red/royal blue, for some fun spectrum coverage.
The blue puts out a lot less light per watt, so real light ratio is pretty red.
All running at 700mA (most under driven), so about 34W per set.
See drawing.
If it is not enough, I might add some warm whites. See dotted circles. But no plan to yet.

Not that you need my approval but I think your are on to something. Hitting particular wavelengths

but still covering large sections through the use of multiple colors. Take it for what its worth I

still would suggest the warm whites. Call it covering your bases also there is a ? in my mind how much

different carotenoids play apart in the overall system.

"There are over 600 known carotenoids(thanks wikipedia)" I would assume that different kinds would

respond to different wavelengths.

What kind of drivers are you using? I ask cause I am dealing with this right now with the deep reds.

A driver with a dimming function would allow you to test if favoring one type of chlorophyll or the other

would be beneficial. The reefkeeperlite can be set up to adjust 0-10 vdc dimmers. no experience with

Just a suggestion. Hope this helps.

I have a meanwell LPC-35-700 that I bought a while back, so will probably use that.
However, it is really running the deep reds at half power. Doubles the cost/lumen.
If you want to drive fully, I recommend a meanwell LPC-60-1400. 60W, 1400mA

I am having second thoughts about the warm white as well.
And about driving at half rate, since it really adds to costs.

A lot of mentions of power efficiency, but truthfully if I would instead maximize filtering performance per unit size. My acrylic unit, 25 X 7 X 6 is about 1050 cubic inches. The same amount of screen area and filtering power, if done properly with led's (or fiber, etc), could be placed in a 3 X 10 X 10 unit, which would be the size of a dictionary. Power supply would be external.

Just a note that various other LED threads are recently saying BLUE is the way to go.
One was after someone talked to someone who worked raising algae, then posted it on the internet.
So it must be right!

But it could be. Red wavelengths get filtered by seawater, blue bounces around a lot, so things adapt.
I have plenty of algae in my main tank, and it has very cold blue lighting.

Enclosed is the spectra from CFL/LED that I found online.
Note the serious lack of blue in the LED, and a lot in CFL. Especially phillips.
The LED was from some head-lamp, which most likely means cool-white. No mention of brand or anything.

I have a prism somewhere in the house. If I can find it, I will do some measurements myself.