Modern LED scrubber light

I am thinking this will be my next purchase ledengin deep reds and (10) of these 680nm leds for $90

to go along with the xp-g warm whites I got coming.

http://www.tech-led.com/data/SMB680-1100-I.pdf

Might be better choices through this company, but this is what is available in a min. 10 led sample.

Seems that some companies are only interested in large sales.

Will use a meanwell cen-100-48 to drive the 680's

http://www.meanwell.com/search/cen-100/default.htm

Still doing research but I think I will be able to mount them on a small metal "pedestal" with

Arctic Alumina Adhesive (non conductive) letting the leads "dangle"

I think the heatsink part of the led is non conductive. The I suffix indicates a ceramic plate between

the led and the heatsink. ??? anyone know for sure?

Needless to say this is getting farther and farther away from a basic diy setup.

So please any comments and/or recommendations.

One concern I am having is that rough calculation has me using a lot more power over a 660nm

Have 6 10watt (660) deep reds 833mA * approx 11v *6 leds= 55 watts giving approx total of 12 watts of radiant flux

Plans for 10 (680) deeper reds 2A * approx 4v *10 leds = 80 watts giving approx total of (420mw *10) 4.2watts of radiant intensity

(assuming that is the same as radiant flux) (edited) radiant intensity is mW/sr ??? I am guesstimating around 400 mW

Might go to show how good the ledengin deepreds are and that the further up the scale you go the more power you need to use.

Thanks for any replies.

All of the "star" type LED PCBs are non conducting. You will not have a problem with those. Not sure about others.
I use Arctic silver or Arctic alumina. Works great. (I use the epoxy version and glue it, but same as the grease)

I bought my deep reds from Newark. No real minimum order. Decent pricing. But no idea on bin codes.
I agree that they will complement the xp-g very well.
I have no solid opinion on the ratio. My first build used 3 warm-white to 2 red. Equal wattage.
Worked so-so.

You might want to double check the blue side as well.
Those xp-g have a fairly low and tight blue. You might need a royal-blue to be perfect.
Assuming you are going for a fairly flat spectrum.

Holy smoke, 135 Watts?
I forget if you mentioned it, but what is the area of your screen? It is starting to sound like a serious amount of light there.
I think my rev-2 at 25W might be capable of the entire 200 sq in screen. It seems to be overpowering the 120 sq in or so now.

I hear you. 6" by 36" horizontal

Plan on moving some part of my led setup, they are on different heatsinks, to light my tank.

I think I might of overdone it a bit with the (6) 10 watt deep reds (6) 3 watt blues and (6) 5 watt

warm whites on a heat sink that measures 7" by 10.5". Although I kind of just thought I would just leave it on less.

To much work(backwords) to disassemble so I will just move it.

Want to get some plants going. FW discus south american biotope action.

Might be a good point for others we both allowed some measure of flexibility in our led builds for

adjustment by using multiple heatsinks.

Hope this helps.

Keeping the LEDs modular is a good suggestion.
I originally had 1 per heat sink, and on the latest one, 3 per heat sink.
Wish I had stayed with 1.

That will be a really funky looking purple main tank if you keep that 6/6/6 R/W/B color ratio.
Cool!

You have an adjustable driver. Just drop it down. More efficient watts/lum that way.

I am also going to use some leftover warm-whites for my kid's simple planted FW tank.
He rather likes the funky purple also though, so who knows.

Keep us results posted. I have some LED comming that I'm going to give a shot.

I'm just as curious about the far red spectrum as I am about the deep blue and uv spectrum(blue mainly in marine life).

"Chlorophyll a fluoresces at 673 nm (maximum) and 726 nm."

Time to get funky on the dance floor.

[attachment=0:1zbgw4il]012.JPG[/attachment:1zbgw4il]

This camera is causing me nothing but problems. With new batteries I still can only manage a few photos

before it dies but I managed to get a few more. The tank still needs a lot of work it is still pretty new.

This is about 3 days growth and is only one half of the full scrubber, the side with the deep reds.

[attachment=1:1a7wyp5p]017.JPG[/attachment:1a7wyp5p]

That may work out.

Awsome. The last week I've also been doing some hard research and looking at deep red. Here is a link that seems to shed a possible why onto the red spectrum and possibly even cyan green yellow.

http://www.mbl.ku.dk/mkuhl/pages/PDF/La ... l_2005.pdf

My suspicion is our CFLs have been putting out enough of the spectrum we figured was kinda useless to grow the algae. where as our LEDs are just so narrow they do not. especially the specific color ones.

Here is another semi usefull titbit I found from the bio fuel algae guys.

http://www.oilgae.com/algae/cla/cla.html

It maybe be possible with enough work we can dial in on how to specificly promote growth of selected types of algae. as well as use even less wattage.

The work we are doing here also has implications outside algae. It might help discover more about lighting for coral. If new wavelength targets are identified in the green or deep red spectrum.

I will be targeting warm white roughly 3000k and 700nm for my experiements. I just have to wait for them to arrive.