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Thing is, if that pic is after two weeks of LED, and if that is an improvement over your CFL's, then your CFL's were unfortunately not operating correctly in the first place. The CFL screen should have been packed with algae, at least 1/2 inch thick, after two weeks (of course you normally would not let it go two weeks). Also notice the circles on screen, where the pods are eating
My theory on slow growth, largely from reading your FAQ here:
* Competition for nutrients from algae in main tank.
--- My Nitrates and Phosphates tested as zero.
--- The algae in the tank is very well established. And not truly rampantly growing like early on, just tough slow growing tufts.
--- I also have a protein skimmer, tons of live rock, and a remote deep sand bed.
* My ATS design is not the best.
--- It is single sided, not entirely vertical, and has only one layer of screen.
--- I did the hole-saw thing, but probably not enough.
* The CFL setup I had was probably wrong. Too close/far or something.
So the combination of all that originally allowed the main tank algae to completely out compete the ATS algae.
Now, I am just getting slow growth because of first two issues above.
However, I am curious:
Your last post seems to imply that you expect the CFLs to work far better than the LEDs.
I really do not understand why that would be the case. Measurements show them as very similar. Both produce plenty of algae-usable light.
I do plan to try diamond diffuser plate, but again, measurements show similar issues with edison socket CFLs.
The new-ish high powered LEDs are well proven for greenhouses and main aquarium tanks. My main tank is about 50/50 T5/LED.
I would expect LEDs to be comparable in effectiveness, but better for environmental/other reasons.
BTW: Don't take a little bit of argument here as not appreciating this great site.
There has not been an LED scrubber that has worked, yet. So that's why I say a CFL should work better. Display lighting does not apply, since your eyes can't tell the difference in power levels. But algae can, and over-lit areas will yellow, and under-lit areas won't grow, even though the LED coverage looks the same to your eyes. I do think LED's scrubbers are the future, but for now they are impossible to DIY.
As for your CFL screen not growing, you are right that's it's a combination of things which made your scrubber too weak to get started. I would tell most people to (even if temporarily) double or triple their scrubber power. I think the singe-sided part of yours is what did it in.
What about these new LED panels they are selling all over eBay. They range from 14w to 90w. Everything from solid colors to quads. The quads are mostly Red and Orange but fill with Blue and Full Spectrum White. I have a neighbor that grows "herbs" in his basement with these. He can't keep up with the rate of growth on his plants.
Features & Benefits: Item Includes:
Each light has 90 x 1w LEDs, 6:1:1:1 red/blue/orange/white
Precision red & orange LEDs from High Power Opto
Precision blue & white LEDs from Bridgelux USA
Orange & white LEDs provide fill for all missing spectrums
True optimized spectrum with tight-tolerance LEDs
Unrivaled chlorophyll/carotenes/xanthophylls absorption
Uses wide-angle (120°) LEDs for max coverage & output
Extremely efficient, integral reflector
Dazzling, powerful light
No infrared rays or ultraviolet radiation to stunt plants
LEDs emit light without using filaments; light runs cool
Built-in, ballast-free, power supply
10-years or more life-expectancy with minimum decay
Three, thermostatically-controlled, low-noise fans
Operates on 110 or 220 volts; standard 3-prong cord included
(we will supply free adaptor for any UK buyers)
Built-in lugs for easy mounting & hanging
CE & ROHS compliant
Brand new in original box
Absolutely the finest lights available at any price
Risk free purchase; 30-day money back guarantee
1 - 90-watt Xen-lux light
Carabiner hanging kit
6' grounded, 110v USA cord
(UK buyers receive adaptor)
Specifications:
Number of lights: 1
LEDs per light: 90
Total LEDs (1-watt): 90
Color: Red/blue/orange/white
Input current: 0.8 amps
Power per light: 90w
Unit diameter: 10.75"
Unit height: 2.5"
Frame: Metal
Red wavelength: 660 nm
Blue wavelength: 455 nm
Orange wavelength: 610 nm
White wave: full-spectrum / wide-kelvin
Max coverage: 290 sq. ft.
Use: Indoor growing
Shipping weight: 8 lbs.
Go ahead. We'll watch over your shoulder. :D
.... gotta wait for my tax return!
I cannot find the detailed specs for those LEDs.
But if they are high efficiency, like Cree/Luxeon, 90W would be BLAZINGLY bright.
Could be equivalent to 120W+ of CFL lighting, so likely way overkill for an ATS.
The usual 14W panels I have seen use the tiny LEDs. Those are FAR less efficient, so 14W would be very little.
But I don't know exactly which ones you are looking at.
Make sure you look at the detailed specs before buying!
I looked at that spec in more detail, and looks like a great product.Quote:
Originally Posted by inkidu
In fact, I bought two of the 35W versions for a different LED project. Unrelated to fish.
Quick update:
I added 2 more layers to the screen, and they are MUCH rougher. Stay tuned next week on that.
To be scientific, I only added them on the lower part, so I can sortof compare.
There is a "trick" to the "hole saw trick". (SM: If you see this, you may want to try it, and add it to the FAQ if it works well)
Do not simply scrape the hole saw laying flat around the screen.
Tilt it slightly, such that the teeth of the saw are cutting like they normally would in a board.
When pulling toward you, tilt left side up. When pushing away, tilt right side up.
While a bit tricky, it worked a lot better. Less work, much rougher.
I think flat, the teeth angled the other way actually push the plastic back down, wasting effort, and breaking off what was pulled up.
Also, my flow is not what I thought. I double checked, and it is more like 40 GPH. But single sided, so well above the requirements.
Yes I use that tilting trick.